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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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  1.  
    We’ve successfully negotiated putting our rainwater, via attenuation storage, into the sewer (long story but no room for soakaway). I now need to figure out options for how we get it from each downpipe into the attenuation crates.

    Initial plan was a slot/channel drain with localised ‘shoes’ connecting into it at each downpipe. Visually though, the preference would be a simple French drain, geotextile lining with a perforated pipe coil below gravel. The weakness I see with the latter approach is ‘reverse drainage’ whereby we end up with the rainwater off our roof saturating our foundations before it percolates down into the pipe...

    What I’m wondering now is if there’s anything out there that could do both. Some form of channel with grating that’s then buried under gravel, so water can either trickle down off the facade or be directed down off the roof.

    Anyone got any ideas/product links or am I over thinking this?
  2.  
    If your french drain has a reasonable fall (say about plastic soil pipe gradient) then I don't think there will be a problem. Design your french drain to match the typical rainfall e.g. summer rain here tends to come in Biblical quantities for half an hour or so and then every thing steams afterwards. This needs a higher capacity drain than if you get 12 hours of drizzle.

    If you were worried about water seeping out to the foundations then line the french drain with impermeable plastic sheet which will direct everything to the attenuation storage. I would put geotex on top of the french drain (and then put a couple of inches of shingle on that) to keep stuff from being washed into the french drain over time.

    I would connect each down pipe directly to the french drain,either above ground to the top of the drain or below ground above the pipe. Above ground would be more flexible in the maximum down pour that could be catered for.
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeAug 22nd 2018 edited
     
    How about an hybrid system: surface drain with slotted cover (vehicular type as necessary); knock out the bottom of the resin channel, so that the water escapes into the gravel course, then down into the French drain which discharges to manhole.

    The fall connects directly into the surface drain (vertically, no shoe) - for this, a cut-out is required in the cover...


    P.S. Watch out for slotted covers in front of building entrances etc. as they can catch out stick- or crutch-users...

    gg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeAug 22nd 2018
     
    Why not just connect each downpipe to a drain pipe that goes to the attenuation crates? Multiple downpipes can share a single drain if convenient and sized properly. Then have a separate French drain if desired.
  3.  
    Posted By: djhWhy not just connect each downpipe to a drain pipe that goes to the attenuation crates? Multiple downpipes can share a single drain if convenient and sized properly. Then have a separate French drain if desired.


    It just seems like doubling up - the attenuation is a block of crates adjacent to the house (imagine an exclamation mark on its side, our house is the dash and the crates are the dot). In other words the direction and location the roof draining pipes would run around the house is the same as the French drain so they’d naturally sit above each other anyway.

    I think Peter’s solution is probably the most workable but I don’t know if the flow rates along a perforated pipe would be dramatically different to the channel drain that our drainage design was based on.
  4.  
    Posted By: Doubting_ThomasI don’t know if the flow rates along a perforated pipe would be dramatically different to the channel drain that our drainage design was based on.

    When I have seen the out flow of french drains with perforated pipe at the base there has been more water coming out of the french drain than the pipe ! A perforated pipe in a french drain is specified (mostly) to give the builders and planners a warm feeling. If the drain is properly constructed then the pipe is largely superfluous but having said that I always chuck one in as its cheap insurance.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2018 edited
     
    Perhaps check out Fin drains using non-permeable geotextiles...

    http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain07.htm

    Not used them myself. We went for regular linear drains for the patio. Where I built a French drain around a shed I have problems with leaves rotting on top of the gravel causing weeds and grass to grow. Looks untidy and hard to mow over due to the stones.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2018
     
    <blockquote>What I’m wondering now is if there’s anything out there that could do both. Some form of channel with grating that’s then buried under gravel, so water can either trickle down off the facade or be directed down off the roof.</blockquote>

    You can get half perforated pipe. It can be installed with perforated side up or down depending on your objectives. Perforated side up seems to match what you are asking about.

    This is 150mm diameter. Not sure how to mate it with say 80mm down pipes.

    https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/6m-twinwall-half-perforated-drain-pipe-150mm.html
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2018
     
  5.  
    Thanks CWatters, I think that's what I envisaged our contractor will put in anyway but their recent description of it as a 'coil' suggests it might be something more loose laid and flexible than that. Will check with them.

    For anyone interested, I also found this: https://www.drainage-channel.co.uk/category-6090/DC975.html
    which appears to be a linear channel with gravel tray on the lid. In theory adding a few downpipe connectors would then achieve the setup I was proposing above.

    However they weren't too keen on the idea of sticking roof runoff into this channel too - they were concerned over the chances of it overfilling and flooding since, I guess, it's designed to only take percolated surface water. Personally I think the overflow is unlikely in our situation, but either way they're not exactly the cheapest solution...
    • CommentAuthorgoodevans
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2018 edited
     
    I plan to have my downpipes finish above ground level with a shoe and discharge into a gravel strip/French drain that surrounds the house. The French drain will have a perforated pipe at the bottom which may or may not end up carrying the water but guarantees a flow rate similar to a standard pipe.

    The French drain can be connected to the storage crate via the perforated pipe(s) and the granular fill of the French drain which should be contiguous with the granular fill surrounding the crate (which will be covered by geo-membrane to prevent the fill getting into the crate). In this way water in the granular fill and water in the perforated pipe go into the store.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 5th 2018
     
    Posted By: goodevansI plan to have my downpipes finish above ground level with a shoe and discharge into a gravel strip/French drain that surrounds the house.

    That's what I've done with a view to easier maintenance (unblocking of downpipes etc if ever required). Do check the arrangements with your BCO first. Mine tooka little bit of persuading that it was OK.
    • CommentAuthorgoodevans
    • CommentTimeSep 5th 2018
     
    A little easier for me as I have piles so there is little need to move the water away from the foundations.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 5th 2018
     
    It was simply meeting the building regs requirement to move the water away from the foundations that he had trouble with, since the French drain is adjacent to the foundations. He accepted a pipe from the drain to a nearby ditch met that requirement, although in reality it also serves to allow water to flow from the ditch to the hardcore under the house in winter, when the water in the ditch stands higher than the outfall. But we haven't floated away yet!
  6.  
    I am struggling to hold back the quip!!:bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeSep 6th 2018
     
    Posted By: goodevansA little easier for me as I have piles so there is little need to move the water away from the foundations.


    this is probably a good argument for annular retention...

    gg
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeSep 7th 2018
     
    <blockquote>Thanks CWatters, I think that's what I envisaged our contractor will put in anyway but their recent description of it as a 'coil' suggests it might be something more loose laid and flexible than that. Will check with them.</blockquote>

    Think I'd want the twin wall stuff as a minimum.
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