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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2021
     
    Hi everyone

    I've been toying with the idea of restoring the original floorboards in my bathroom. The builder who installed my new joists says its fine as long as your careful. The boards are pine.

    A good strong varnish would be the obvious choice of finish but in terms of maintenance its more problematic. It will most likely only be me living here so it won't get huge traffic / wear. But is wax / oil totally out of the question in this instance?

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2021
     
    As long as you look after them properly no problem.
  1.  
    Wooden floors in a bathroom - is this madness?

    No. Carry on.

    I cannot now remember the make, but we used one wax/(?)oil which did not last, but I have heard that others do. I guess someone on here will have experience, or ask an established 'eco paint' supplier.
    • CommentAuthorRobL
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2021
     
    We have wooden floorboards in our bathroom, in fact over most of the house due to carpet allergies. It's been "mostly" fine. We had visitors who let the shower play out over it for a while, it seeped through the cracks and stained through the plasterboard ceiling below. Other floor coverings would have probably avoided the issue. We let the plasterboard dry, painted with oil paint then emulsion, all fine. Just using emulsion alone often stains again.
    Have always used diamond hard satin varnish, never really looked into different oils/waxes. I like that it doesn't smell much when you use it. It doesn't mind getting wet, it always wears out in hallways first due to traffic.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2021
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: RobL</cite>Just using emulsion alone often stains again.</blockquote>

    I swear by Zinsser paint. Had lot of issues with water/steam on plasterboard above a shower. It would literally be dripping with water. Mould and flaking. Zinsser sorted it all out. Don't think I will use anything else on a bathroom ceiling now.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2021
     
    Personally, I don't find anything about softwood flooring particularly sensible, in what in the 21st. century really should be a wet room.
    Line the floor with T&G plywood, and seal both floor and partway up the walls with appropriate wetproofing membranes. Then apply any one of a number of different waterproof coverings, even ones that look like pine floorboards. Recycle the softwood into something else. :wink::bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2021
     
    If you like to wood look but not the wood, then it's possible to find wood-look cork flooring. Similar appearance to wood, but warmer underfoot and waterproof.
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2021
     
    Posted By: owlmanPersonally, I don't find anything about softwood flooring particularly sensible, in what in the 21st. century really should be a wet room.


    ðŸ˜ÂðŸ˜ÂðŸ˜Â

    Define a wet room please.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2021
     
    Ideally one where the room is tanked, and ideally the shower is on the same level as the rest of the floor with an obvious slight fall to the drain.
    Or to a lesser degree where the floor is sealed prior to subsequent finished floor covering, regardless of shower facilities.
    The sealing/tanking is fairly easily achieved with modern products if they are carefully applied.
    On suspended floors I always make sure the joists are tight and any "bounce" is eliminated. IMO, only use plywood as a sub base, in the past after sorting out "blown" particle board floors in bathrooms, I only ever use ply on such floors.
  2.  
    Was the particle board blown, because water got past the sealing/tanking?:sad:

    That's what happened to us, v messy and disruptive.

    Kristeva's idea is good, as the wood is on display and cannot sit wet and rotting unseen. But consider where any water leakages would end up.
    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2021
     
    Posted By: WillInAberdeenWas the particle board blown, because water got past the sealing/tanking?http:///newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/sad.gif" alt=":sad:" title=":sad:" >

    That's what happened to us, v messy and disruptive.

    Kristeva's idea is good, as the wood is on display and cannot sit wet and rotting unseen. But consider where any water leakages would end up.


    Thanks for the comments everyone.

    My bathroom is above my kitchen lol. I just didn't want a generic white space and thought I could make use of the history of the house by revealing the original floor. I'd have to seal the gaps carefully.

    All my other rooms will most probably been finished in wax because of the ease of maintenance where you can spot up particular areas. My concern about varnish was the fact that if it fails you need to strip back to the boards before varnishing again and in a room with a toilet, bath, etc that's quite disruptive.
    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2021
     
    Posted By: RobLWe have wooden floorboards in our bathroom, in fact over most of the house due to carpet allergies. It's been "mostly" fine. We had visitors who let the shower play out over it for a while, it seeped through the cracks and stained through the plasterboard ceiling below. Other floor coverings would have probably avoided the issue. We let the plasterboard dry, painted with oil paint then emulsion, all fine. Just using emulsion alone often stains again.
    Have always used diamond hard satin varnish, never really looked into different oils/waxes. I like that it doesn't smell much when you use it. It doesn't mind getting wet, it always wears out in hallways first due to traffic.


    Yes, I'd imagine varnish acts more as a sealant than wax?

    Waxing the floor would certainly make the bathroom installation a lot easier lol
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2021 edited
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: WillInAberdeen</cite>Was the particle board blown, because water got past the sealing/tanking?<img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/sad.gif" alt=":sad:" title=":sad:">
    </img>



    No, it was in an adjacent airing cupboard where a cylinder union had been dripping. The particle board wetness had migrated under the tap end of the close by bath and under carpet, ugh!, So, a major sort out was called for, with everything out and start again. The clients wanted tiles and I wasn't about to put my name to a piecemeal repair job. Fortunately the joists were good and sound.
  3.  
    Posted By: owlmanThe sealing/tanking is fairly easily achieved with modern products if they are carefully applied.
    On suspended floors I always make sure the joists are tight and any "bounce" is eliminated. IMO, only use plywood as a sub base, in the past after sorting out "blown" particle board floors in bathrooms, I only ever use ply on such floors.

    Does your definition of particle board include grade 3 OSB or are you referring to the various grades of chipboard?

    For plywood I presume you mean WBP ply or the modern equivalent.
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2021
     
    My father's house in NZ is over hundred years old and has timber floors everywhere, including the bathroom, no problem. Floors are vanished.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2021
     
    Ah Peter, WPB, AKA, Weather and Boil proof, actually as you allude, no such animal, dead and gone, even though some suppliers still refer to it. If a builder/contractor refers to it in some spec. sheet the alarm bells should ring.

    These are I believe the current plywood standards:-

    https://apawood-europe.org/official-guidelines/european-standards/individual-standards/en-314-2/

    As for particle board in bathrooms, I only have had, " bad" experience with chipboard.
  4.  
    Posted By: owlmanAs for particle board in bathrooms, I only have had, " bad" experience with chipboard.

    I would agree about any grade of chipboard.........But what about OSB 3?

    Posted By: owlmanIf a builder/contractor refers to it (WBP) in some spec. sheet the alarm bells should ring.

    I still refer to some electrical tools by the GPO stores number, a habit I picked up working on telephone exchanges about 50 years ago. Old habits die hard, on the other hand perhaps it shows a depth of experience.
    But if written in a spec - naughty, as spoken, well...understandable.
    • CommentAuthorLF
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2021
     
    Peter,

    OSB 3 is very water tolerant in my experience. Treating cut ends might be a good idea if critical.
    Spec says humid conditions rather and protected from direct water.

    I put down an 9 mm (I think) over old floorboards in my bathroom to give a good flat floor to work off.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2021 edited
     
    Peter OSB 3 is designed for more "humid" conditions as LF says, and I'd certainly prefer it to chipboard especially the smooth sanded variety, although I don't use it often. It's not quite as stiff as plywood so if joist spacing was a bit iffy for e.g. subsequent tiling, I'd still go for ply. As for relative moisture resistance I guess if you were tanking the surface It'll be fine.
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