Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




    • CommentAuthorMiked2714
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2009
     
    Hi all

    I guess there will be a lot of solar PV questions in the next few months. We've just started to think about it for obvious reasons. Not a huge system ~1.4-1.8kWp. Doesn't seem to be many installers locally (S.Oxfordshire) so I contacted one with my plan which is as follows: install panels on a lean-to pergola which will be built to stick out onto south facing patio. We were planning to build this anyway, so can easily build it robustly to hold the weight and account for wind lift etc. Advantages of this approach (to me) are that the panels are accessible, can be at optimum angle, no scaffolding, electrics relatively simple as it's close to where I've got a spare main cable running back to the consumer unit, and we get some shading for free. The feedback from the installer was that this was highly unusual and they didn't do any installations which weren't on a roof or freestanding. I thought that we effectively had a roof without the tiles, but no go apparently. They were helpful and suggested that other installers might use a Shuco system, I checked their website, very nice, can supply custom canopies with built in pv panels, but it just screams “expensive”. Any suggestions on mounting sytems or installers to contact, feeling a bit down about the whole thing!

    Cheers and thanks in advance

    Mike
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2009
     
    Excellent idea; the Italians do it all the time and their motorway service stations have banks of PV roofs over shaded parking spots. It sounds to me that the installer has too much work on. If it wasn't for the MCS requirement you could always have done it yourself and then got it certified by a qualified electrician when they come to attach it to the grid. As it is there is too much work for too few installers.
  1.  
    I think the problem is you will need the panels angled to maximise yield and doing so will only allow for 2 or 3 panels as anything more than a single row will be shaded by the first row of panels. You could mount a large frame on top of the pergola to allow an array much like you would on on typical roof, but this with an array of 1.4kWp would weigh around 140kg which a pergola isn't designed to take and in strong winds it would be very dangerous. This type of install would fall way outside the working practises set out under MCS approval.

    I have the new MCS approved 240w panels and very cost effective and attractive ground mounting systems coming in the new year. With this you can have a 3.6kWp (G83 compliant) array which will suffer no shading, an optimal angle and max FIT payments.
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeDec 20th 2009
     
    Surely the point is that you can mount PVs anywhere so long, as has been pointed out, the structure they are going to be mounted on is able to take the static, wind and snow loadings that might occur. You could put the panels on a pergola if it was designed to take the load. The shading is more of an issue here than in southern Italy though as the sun gets much lower especially this time of the year.
    • CommentAuthorchuckey
    • CommentTimeDec 20th 2009
     
    Its a marvelous idea, you can change the angle of them with the seasons so maximising your output. The weight is a consideration, you don't say what area the panels will be, i.e panels .5m high and 6m long would be excellent, 1m high and 2m long,is more difficult. As mentioned its best to only have the panels one high or its more frame work and more uglyness.
    I can't see why you should have any need for mains, what you will need is BIG low voltage cables to your batteries and inverter (build a dog kennel out side to put the kit into). Persevere with getting a tradesman or do it yourself.
    Frank
    • CommentAuthorGotanewlife
    • CommentTimeDec 20th 2009 edited
     
    pmusgrove is absolutely right about using PV in this way in Italy. It is standard practice so don't let the 'Its not done like that around here" get in the way of a solution that suits you!! Ref angles - strongly suggest you look closely at the effect (ie the figures) of a compromise - when I looked at the effect of sub-optimal angles for my FPs I was just amazed at the range of angles a few percent compromise would give me. Also, who says the roof on the pergola can't be at the angle you want the panels, if the highest point of the pergola does not conflict with, say, an upstairs window.

    Carbon Free - surely one can built a pergola to any standardone wants - quite sure I could build one that would take a pair of elephants doing a waltz and it not even look particularly strange - out here (perhaps to avoid doing any sums) stuff (pergolas/balconies etc) tends to be built way off to the right of over-engineered!
    • CommentAuthorJohn B
    • CommentTimeDec 20th 2009
     
    So where would you put them if you don't have a south facing roof? I would like to put some type of veranda/pergola/conservatory type thing on the end wall of my house, and am started to get tempted by the FIT.
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeDec 20th 2009
     
    That's what I love about Italy (and Malta); the idea that it can be done - so let's do it!
    • CommentAuthorMiked2714
    • CommentTimeDec 21st 2009
     
    Posted By: Carbon Free EnergyI think the problem is you will need the panels angled to maximise yield and doing so will only allow for 2 or 3 panels as anything more than a single row will be shaded by the first row of panels. You could mount a large frame on top of the pergola to allow an array much like you would on on typical roof, but this with an array of 1.4kWp would weigh around 140kg which a pergola isn't designed to take and in strong winds it would be very dangerous. This type of install would fall way outside the working practises set out under MCS approval.

    I have the new MCS approved 240w panels and very cost effective and attractive ground mounting systems coming in the new year. With this you can have a 3.6kWp (G83 compliant) array which will suffer no shading, an optimal angle and max FIT payments.


    Couple of things that I wasn't quite clear about:
    Just wanted to clarify this is not the sort of pergola that one just buys in kit form from a builders merchant or DIY store. I was thinking of its "roof area" being around 3.5 x 2.5m, I'm aware that this wouldn't be a massive array but hopefully, combined with 1-2 panels mounted vertically on a wall could get me up to ~1.4 kWp with no shading. I'm sure it's possible to engineer a pergola with timbers to take a spread load of 140kg, even if for building control purposes I get a structural engineer to specify the timber sizes. Re wind lift, I know people have pergolas with that twinwall plastic roofing that also goes on conservatories, which ought to suffer the same issues, (as should the Shuco canopies)so again, surely it's handle-able. PS could you PM me any details of your ground-mounted panels.
    • CommentAuthorMiked2714
    • CommentTimeDec 21st 2009
     
    Gotanewlife: Re angles, I was thinking of a 20 degree slope, I read that 30 was optimum in the UK.

    Chuckey: I wasn't thinking of anything moveable!! No plans to use any batteries, am planning grid-tie to get the FIT, hence the need for a mains cable back to the consumer unit.
    • CommentAuthoracroiso
    • CommentTimeJan 10th 2010
     
    You can mount the modules just off horizontal if you want; you won't actually notice a huge different in annual performance compared to mounting them at c.35o. The only reson wouldn't recommen lying them flat is that they will not be cleaned as well by the rain.
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeJan 12th 2010
     
    You can use very simple mounting tech if you don't mind some DIY. See http://www.navitron.org.uk/forum/index.php/topic,8417.0.html (stainless box) or http://www.navitron.org.uk/forum/index.php/topic,7702.0.html (aluminium U). There are plenty of commercial systems, but they are surprisingly expensive - the emphasis being minimising the time fitters spend on roofs, no expense spared.

    Clearly the pergola needs to be manly enough but that's not a problem. e.g: http://www.pbase.com/sheils/image/58912465 (they have an even bigger one round the corner, which is 200m long and has 15 tonnes of timber in it!)

    Things are trickier if you want FITs as that needs MCS certification (bloody con - it's metered - why the hell should it need certifyed parts and installers, (beyond legal compliance), as well?). If you can find a helpful one who will let you do the frame, that might work. (I can recommend evoenergy as very reasonable and accomodating people and good value as MCS installers go - they did my PV: http://www.navitron.org.uk/forum/index.php/topic,9380.0.html ). I think their range includes Oxfordshire.

    Installer prices vary a lot from about £8/Wp to £4.50/Wp (inc VAT, no grant), so ask several.
    • CommentAuthorMiked2714
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2010
     
    Wookey and acroiso - many thanks for your comments!
  2.  
    I'm considering something similar, except using evacuated tubes instead of PV panels. My thinking is that the gaps between the tubes will allow dappled light to filter through to a table and chairs that will be under the pergola. The tubes on top of the pergola will be horizontal so I'll need Direct Flow instead of Heat Pipes.

    The pergola will be attached to a large out-building, will face West and will hold about 80 tubes. Overheat protection will be provided by a large radiator in the roof of the outbuilding, which will be above the solar array and will therfore utilise a gravity feed. I will have racks up there for drying wood for my woodburner so any heat not held in out 350L heatbank will go to the radiator and help dry the wood. The heatbank runs our hot water and central heating and I'm hoping that the solar will take the chill off spring/autumn days in our house (it has 400mm stone walls and is often quite cool ,even during the hottest summer days).

    The tubes will be about 2.5m above the ground and could therefore be touched by hand if a tall person reached up. The manifold and connecting pipework will be boxed off and I've read that the tubes are not hot to the touch, but wanted to check with experts on here.

    Does anyone see any issues with the design/idea?
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2015
     
    Heat-pipe ETs only need to be at more than 20° from horizontal. Would that be possible in your case?

    I had the top end of a heat-pipe ET up to 195 °C while experimenting but the glass was quite comfortable to handle.

    Often I'd say to consider PV for heating hot water but as you're considering it for space heating in the shoulder months that doesn't really apply here.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2015
     
    Posted By: Ed Davies
    Often I'd say to consider PV for heating hot water but as you're considering it for space heating in the shoulder months that doesn't really apply here.
    And some light needs to pass though, PV that does that is expensive, though it should be cheaper really.
  3.  
    Thanks for the replies.

    Unfortunately I can't put a slope onto the pergola roof as I don't have the available height. It's ashame as I'd much prefer heat pipes because the overheat protection would be built into the tubes and because they're more efficient and easier to maintain.

    I'm planning on installing PV onto the East and West sides of the outhouse roof, so can't put the tubes there. As ST mentioned, I don't want to put PV on the pergola because I do want to have some sunlight coming through. I googled Solar Pergola water heating and saw some great images of what I'm trying to achieve. I'm looking to use green oak to make it as ascetically pleasing as possible.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 13th 2015
     
    Can you slope the tubes on the roof? i.e. jack them up at the manifold end
  4.  
    Unfortunately not as the manifold end is just under the roofline of the outbuilding. If I slope it down from there, we'd be knocking our heads on the lower part.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 13th 2015
     
    Would it look really odd if you had the manifold at the other end?

    You could try making your own panels.
  5.  
    I looked into this two years ago and concluded that the best support would be a custom frame by a local steel fabricator, of which we have a suitable one close by.

    There is a thread around somewhere.

    Also a Grand Designs passive house in the Cotswolds used PV panels as a Brieze Soleil very elegantly. It was the one where they built under an existing barn under the Gummer Clause , now para 55.

    I am waiting for next door to pollard their trees and untikI have cash available.

    Ferdinand
  6.  
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
 
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press