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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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    • CommentAuthorDevlin
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2022
     
    Hello everyone. First, of what may be many posts here...

    I live in a typical turn of the century Victorian 2 bed terraced house, solid brick wall etc. You've seen millions of them.

    I am thinking about insulating the house, not rushing into anything and researching the best way to do this considering the type of property it is.

    I've yet to come across any article or forum post that mentions this but is adding both EWI and IWI to effectively the same wall something which I should stay well clear of? So, the inside of the wall is insulated using an appropriate (breathable etc.) material, and the other side of the same wall, on the outside, similarly insulated with a suitable material.

    Please bear in mind I am at the start of this journey so need to flush out these potentially silly questions from my system.

    If this is a terrible idea, can you please help me understand why it would be so bad.

    Thanks for the advice and help.
    • CommentAuthorSteveZ
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2022
     
    Hi Devlin

    EWI makes use of the thermal mass of the solid wall, whereas IWI stops heat transmission through the wall, but does not use the thermal storage offered by the wall. EWI also keeps the outside of the house dry, reducing the cooling effect of rain and wind

    EWI is a better idea generally, but it can have problems, especially in a terraced property where the insulation will stand out against the neighbours.

    IWI is the solution if there is no way to add EWI,and it will make the house warmer!

    Insulating both sides of the same solid wall does not seem to make any sense at all to me.

    I hope this is useful
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2022
     
    But could be OK if there'd good reason
    • CommentAuthorWeeBeastie
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2022
     
    I have thought about this for the external wall of my bathroom. The whole house will have EWI, but with the cost of energy I don't want to heat the bathroom much, hence the one (coldest) wall giving to the outside may still be at risk of condensation. A small amount of IWI on this wall could solve this (potential) problem. There are three other internal masonry walls to store any heat.
    • CommentAuthorDevlin
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2022 edited
     
    Hi @SteveZ - I think the penny may have dropped for me reading what you wrote. The purpose of EWI is to allow you to use the thermal storage of the wall. If you put IWI in the way then you won’t get to warm the wall so what then is the point of having EWI there. OK I think I’m good with this reasoning.
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2022
     
    EWI should give you an unbroken thermal envelope whereas IWI will not. IMHO, if you can use EWI then do. I don't have a problem with it standing out on terrace properties.
  1.  
    I'm finding it difficult to connect EWI to my loft and floor insulation, there would be gaps in the insulation envelope (thermal bridges) all round the house at both ceiling and floor levels, which will actually lose a greater quantity of heat than is lost through the EWI itself (according to the psi values I found so far).

    It's even worse in a terrace where the neighbours don't have EWI, because there's another bridge for heat to escape around both sides, where your EWI stops and the neighbours' uninsulated wall starts.

    In contrast, IWI can be joined seamlessly to the loft and floor insulation, but suffers from gaps/bridges where any solid internal walls cut through the IWI layer where they meet the external wall.

    In answer to the original question, there could be benefit to having both EWi and IWI, if those cover the gaps in each other. Eg fit EWI, and also IWI to cover the bridge zone near ceilings and floors and party walls. Might be tricky to arrange that without looking odd, though.

    Many Victorian houses (incl ours) have a 20thC kitchen extension out the back which can be EWi without messing up the appearance, even if the front wall would look better IWI'd.
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeNov 22nd 2022 edited
     
    WillinAberdeen,

    I don't understand why EWI cannot be seamless with roof insulation. Also, if you have IWI joined seamlessly to on floor insulation how are you supporting the floor? Maybe I am misunderstanding seamless as to me it means there would be nothing going through the insulation at all.
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeNov 22nd 2022
     
    With a conventional pitched roof it should be straight forward to continue the EWI/CWI over the top of the wall plate to join up with the loft insulation. With a rafter depth of 75mm it should be viable to get 50mm PIR on top of the wall plate. If the rafters are deeply notched over the edge of the wall plate then you may need to go to 25mm for a few inches inboard of the wall plate edge but that 25mm can thicken up pretty quickly as the rafter slopes up and away from the wall plate.
  2.  
    Phil, our house doesn't seem to have a wall plate as such, the rafters are notched into the top course of stone work such that the stonework extends up to the underside of the slates. This sees to be the Victorian vernacular in this area, I've seen it in several houses, and roofers in the area are familiar with this.

    To wrap the EWI over the stone, we'd have to demolish the top course of stone to create a gap between the rafters, but that would leave them unrestrained laterally. Possibly we would need to replace the rafters fixing onto a modern wall plate, but we don't fancy taking the roof off!

    We are lucky to have eave overhangs, but the local Victorian style has no overhang, so people's eaves need extending to do EWI, which is awkward with this construction and looks odd in terraces.

    We have an unheated loft so the top bits of the gables and chimney breasts are cold where they are above the ceiling level, they conduct the 'cold' down past the loft insulation and down into the house. IWI would intercept this, but EWI wouldn't, we were wondering if EWI could be wrapped over the top of the gables (more demolition!) and down the inside face in the loft.


    Jonti, we have a mix of solid floors (where the insulation goes on top of the floor slab, turns up the wall to meet the IWI, with floating floorings on top of the insulation) and suspended floors (where the insulation goes between the joists and meets the IWI at the wall).


    Devlin, if you haven't already seen them, the Historic Scotland Refurbishment Case Studies series is good, they tried various IWI and EWI techniques on old buildings and monitored to check the heat and moisture performance was good . There's a lot of them now, here's #4 https://www.historicenvironment.scot/archives-and-research/publications/publication/?publicationId=651e6f16-087f-408b-ab3d-a59300fd971a


    Not saying that either EWI or IWI are better or worse for Victorian retrofits, both have strengths and drawbacks.
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeNov 22nd 2022
     
    Posted By: WillInAberdeenPhil, our house doesn't seem to have a wall plate as such, the rafters are notched into the top course of stone work such that the stonework extends up to the underside of the slates.

    Ah, that makes it s bit more involved but if EWI is going on youll be loosing the stone feature anyway so clearing it out of the way between the rafters might not be that big a deal?? The slate/tile battens provide lateral support but if you want something dedicated then you could add galv straps. No sarking boards on your place?
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeNov 22nd 2022
     
    Willi,

    thanks for the reply. My experience of removing the top row or so of wall to allow EWI to tie into the loft insulation is that it is not such a big deal and doesn't affect the inside of the house. With IWI this tends to be very messy. Like you say there are positives and negatives with both however I do think we need to stop worrying about the appearance of the building. Primarily, a home is for people to live in and not to create a pretty picture as in the end ALL buildings are a 'blot on the landscape'.
  3.  
    Thanks chaps!
    For this house the appearance is not an issue (has already been messed about) - it's the structural aspects that are the issue. I don't trust an EWI/rendering firm to remove the top of the wall. The builders who I do trust are not keen on the idea, they might be ok if an architect or SE signed for it.

    Unusually for the area, there's no sarking boards - just rafters, purlins, battens and slates.

    The rear extension means that the house is T shaped with three gable walls, so their bridging above the loft insulation level is more thermally important than the plain eaves are on the fourth wall.

    Plus the wall-to-ground bridge all round, we previously discussed continuing the EWI down underground, but the foundations are shallow and the suspended floors are ventilated, so it looks like that would be only a partial fix.

    Set against this, I can do the IWI cheaper myself, but it is indeed disruptive - it was easier on the last house when we were a younger family and just moved round doing one room at a time, but for this house we have teenagers occupying all of the bedrooms, difficult to decant them!
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeNov 25th 2022 edited
     
    @SteveZ "and it will make the house warmer!"

    Being strictly accurate, insulation doesn't make anything warmer - a heat source does. Insulation reduces heat loss, but you do still have to generate heat somehow, be it a dedicated source or just incidental from other activity in the house

    Posted By: fostertomBut could be OK if there'd good reason


    Insulated concrete formwork is the embodiment of that!

    Posted By: DevlinSo, the inside of the wall is insulated using an appropriate (breathable etc.) material,


    Not sure why you'd install breathable insulation inside - it transmits human generated moisture towards a wall that isn't very breathable. Usually we aim to make internal spaces vapour sealed to prevent moisture entering the fabric
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeNov 25th 2022
     
    Posted By: JontiEWI should give you an unbroken thermal envelope


    Apart from the bit where the walls join the ground
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeNov 25th 2022 edited
     
    Posted By: cjardUsually we aim to make internal spaces vapour sealed to prevent moisture entering the fabric
    Usually that's futile to attempt

    You can slow it down but the slightest pinhole, split or failing tape seal is like a hole in a water bucket. Relative to the vapour-pressure differential that higher internal humidity (when present) creates, such tiny holes (which would be insignificant if the fluid in question was liquid water) look like gaping holes to the much lower viscosity of gasseous fluids, so offer little resistance, over 24/7 timescales, to the transfer of quantities of vapour.

    What internal vapour barriers are effective at, is
    a) (unintended benefit) as airtight barriers i.e. against bulk air movement (as distinct from permeation of selected vapours through 'unmoving' vapour mixtures aka air); and
    b) (diastrously) impeding inward (as well as outward) re-drying of interstitial condensation which frequently occurs intermittently in the best-calculated of wall 'sandwiches' but is harmless as long as it can promptly re-dry when changed (diurnal or seasonal) conditions allow.

    a) is why internal vapour barriers appear to work, but for reasons different from what's assumed; b) is why in my experience with WUFI, and another recent authoritative ref that I saw recently (I may remember where), internal vapour barriers nearly all make matters worse compared with just leaving them out.
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeNov 25th 2022
     
    Posted By: fostertominternal vapour barriers nearly all make matters worse compared with just leaving them out.
    Yes, when I was studying vapour barriers were seen as essential; now there are more often regarded as not helpful at best, and a problem at worst.

    If you really need one / are required to have one, I'd choose a intelligently-permeable one such as Pro Clima Intello.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeNov 25th 2022
     
    Yes that's right - but then if it behaves like that, is it really doing anything?
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