Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.
Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
 Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




Products: Screws

Bottom of Page

1 to 21 of 21

  1.  
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014 edited
     
    In another discussion Ferdinand said -
    Posted By: ferdinand2000- Is there a separate conversation to have about cheap or not cheap screws for time saved? I've switched to a different type and I have been amazed at the difference. Ferdinand
    I always thought screws is screws, but now I'm not sure. Being tight I've always bought screws with value for money as the first principle, but maybe I've been wrong?
    What do you think?
  2.  
    I use Gold Screws (trade name, not metal content!), and am generally happy, but occasionally (such as with some joist hangers recently) the ease with which I can wind the head off smaller screws worries me a bit!
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    Posted By: Nick Parsonsthe ease with which I can wind the head off smaller screws worries me a bit!
    I read somewhere that there are particular types of screws that should be used in this situation? Makes me wonder if there is some sort of reference work on the subject of screw size / shank diameter available?
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    + one for gold screws, i think winding the heads off screws is indicative of how powerfull cordless drills really are, you would never do it with a screwdriver!!!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    We had a thread (or two) about screws and bolts somewhere on here.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    Posted By: joe90</cite>+ one for gold screws, i think winding the heads off screws is indicative of how powerfull cordless drills really are, you would never do it with a screwdriver!!!</blockquote>

    True.-IMO; if possible, DON'T go for screws with the thread all the way to the head, generally known as chipboard screws. This can be difficult with standard yellow passivated screws, less so with quality products, but is particularly important with SS screws. If you are driving cheap stainless screws into Oak for instance e.g. hinges, the likelihood of ripping the head off is great, and very difficult to rectify. Best to go for a stainless woodscrew like these:-

    http://www.ukstainless.co.uk/product.asp?idproduct=129

    Some good "plain shanked" stainless screws are though, still only made in imperial sizes, not too much of a problem though.

    Posted By: SteamyTea</cite>We had a thread (or two) about screws and bolts

    Ah; quit screwing around Steamy. :wink::bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorPeterW
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    I use Fischer as I've not been able to get a reasonably consistent supply of Spax screws at a decent price for a while. I know when I was talking to a joiner, he said there is a view with a lot of jobbing builders to use cs screws in everything, and he said that decent pan head screws are still available and are better for jobs such as metalwork onto timber etc

    There are a lot of cheap Chinese stainless screws available online now - poor quality and of dubious stainless quality ! I'm not sure anyone makes the 'A' ratings on stainless very clear - I've used them on occasions and tend to pre drill with something such as a normal screw first, especially if its on something that may get moved such as a hinge.

    Cheers

    Peter
    • CommentAuthorSteveZ
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    If you are screwing into Oak, you really should use stainless screws anyhow, as anything else will corrode and/or discolour. Stainless seem to be more prone to break so I drill a pilot not much smaller than the screw. Half a millimetre will still hold well in oak and the screws don't snap!

    I am currently using the Gold SS selection box from Screwfix - they are fully threaded and I have broken a few with my 18v combi
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014 edited
     
    I have used the Gold screws but as said have found them more liable to shearing off. For basic structural work I just use the Quicksilver ones as these seem less prone to shearing and rusting but need a bit more torque to get them home. If price is less of an issue the Spax screws are fantastic especially the large pan head Wirox ones. For joist hangers I thought nails were best and the square twist nails being specifically designed for such use.
    • CommentAuthorPeterW
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    Posted By: BeauIf price is less of an issue the Spax screws are fantastic especially the large pan head Wirox ones. For joist hangers I thought nails were best and the square twist nails being specifically designed for such use.


    I nearly fell over the last time a trade counter gave me a price on the Wirox screws...!!

    And the spec of the hanger should dictate what is used - some have face screws supplied and then use twist nails to secure the joist - I-Joists don't need anything on some of the new StrongTie products

    Cheers

    Peter
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    "I nearly fell over the last time a trade counter gave me a price on the Wirox screws...!!"

    Not going to argue with that. They are indeed very expensive. There used to be a cheaper version with not such a fancy finnish but not sure you can still get it.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    Modern screws are pretty good. Main problem with loose screws is how to get one out of a box quickly without getting stuck by a point :-(
    • CommentAuthorBean
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    Spax screws all the way, we use them daily. No snapping, no slipping bits, very very good screws!
    But not the cheapest!
  14.  
    Posted By: Nick ParsonsI use Gold Screws (trade name, not metal content!), and am generally happy, but occasionally (such as with some joist hangers recently) the ease with which I can wind the head off smaller screws worries me a bit!


    Unless it says otherwise on the box, screws are NOT to be used for shear loads, such as joist hangers etc. These must be nailed using the correct nailing schedule that comes with the hangar. There are correctly rated screws available, but any other screws must not be used and would be a violation of building codes here in Canada.

    Paul in Montreal.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Paul in Montreal
    Unless it says otherwise on the box, screws are NOT to be used for shear loads, such as joist hangers etc. These must be nailed using the correct nailing schedule that comes with the hangar. There are correctly rated screws available, but any other screws must not be used and would be a violation of building codes here in Canada.

    That's generally correct here too Paul. I use Simpson Strong Tie glulam connectors and the instructions call for nailing, and their own nails too. Not sure if the last bit is a little bit of Simpson kidology, but not worth the risk to use just any nails.
  16.  
    ''Unless it says otherwise on the box, screws are NOT to be used for shear loads, such as joist hangers etc. These must be nailed using the correct nailing schedule that comes with the hangar. There are correctly rated screws available, but any other screws must not be used and would be a violation of building codes here in Canada.''

    Good, if a bit late (!) to learn that, Paul. Interesting re the hanger instructions/nailing schedule, though. I have been using them on and off for over 10 years and have never bought one which has any sort of instructions with it!
    • CommentAuthorfuncrusher
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    I'm very surprised at the superficial content of this thread. Fasteners - of which screws are merely one type - are carefully designed for specific types of duty. There is no universal 'best screw'. Apart from obvious strength (shear, pull out, etc) durability is often a key consideration, as well as operational efficiency.

    The advent of the cordless drill has required thinner, sharper screws - and a resulting tendency to use much weaker screws than previously.

    Shearing of screw heads can be greatly curtailed by using lower revs or a torque-limiter.

    Unfortunately the use of BZP instead of hot-dip galvanising provides little more than cosmetic protection against corrosion. Incidentally, an old carpenters trick is to put a drop of oil on a mild steel screw. It aids insertion and greatly inhibits rust, as the oil soaks into the wood.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2014
     
    I was told that they used the Brylcreme in their hair to lubricate nails into oak - haven't got enough hair to do that!!
  19.  
    http://www.strongtie.com/products/fasteners/applicationguide/fastenersstcon.html?source=catlist#

    The specified fasteners must be used as far as I understand. You can use screws, but they have to be designed for the purpose. Regular screws are not suitable for shear-loads. I built a deck using Simpson Strong Tie connectors and hangars and used their double-dipped galvanized nails - these were rated for use in pressure-treated timber as single-dipped will corrode and fail in ACQ-treated wood.

    Paul in Montreal.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2014
     
    Fasteners - of which screws are merely one type - are carefully designed for specific types of duty. There is no universal 'best screw'.


    +1 on that.
  21.  
    Nevertheless, as a rule of thumb, once you get to 5mm dia I always use a Tx head screw and at 4.5x50 onwards I also use Tx.

1 to 21 of 21

  1.  
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
 
Back to Discussions Top of Page
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press