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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Hi,

    I'm just starting to look at using the stream at the end of my garden for a water source heat pump. I could use some advice on the practicality and whether I could do any of the installation work myself.

    The stream is 50m from the house, downhill, about 15m below the house. It's small - running currently at about 10-15 litres/minute. The stream is fed by a spring up the hill, passes through a field and then goes underground for about 2-300m under the ground of an old folk's home. It exits the concrete underground pipe at the bottom of my garden. I've just measured the water temperature, and it's 14 degrees currently. I'm guessing that it might be around 12 degrees in winter, given the distance it travels underground? The stream runs very clear almost all of the time - I have been using the water for years for garden irrigation, toilet flushing and the washing machine. Occasionally, the farmer puts cows in the field and they paddle round in the stream turning it brown.

    I've looked briefly at websites of people who fit water source heat pumps, and one site suggested that the height of the house from the water might be a problem as there is higher to pump the water. But I'd have thought the return water would balance the intake, and so there'd be little pumping energy needed?

    A water temperature of 12 degrees or so might be fine in winter, but I wonder how practical it might be to heat the water further during summer, either in my greenhouse which is near the stream and gets too hot unless I ventilate it, or by having the intake pipe exposed to the air and so warm up somewhat as it travels up the garden.

    There's the question of open or closed system.... I think given the height difference, there would likely be a problem with air getting into an open system. I could possibly lay a heat exchanger for a closed system inside the base of the concrete pipe - it is easily big enough to crawl up.

    Would I be able to do some of the installation myself (I've rebuilt the house, and installed all the plumbing and a raspberry pi controlled irrigation system for the garden) or do I need to hand over all the work to some registered installer to qualify for the RHI payments?

    Thanks for any suggestions.

    John
  2.  
    Time may be your enemy here. I think the RHI ends in March 2022

    Most heat pump suppliers offer an “umbrella scheme” (e.g. Kensa) so you can do most of the installation yourself. You will probably need a G3 certified plumber for unvented hot water system (or to sign it off at least)
  3.  
    The water source examples that I have seen used a slinky coil or two sunk into a large body of water .
    I asked about it for our pond (it’s a decent sized pond) but was told that it probably wouldn’t be big enough - it has frozen over in very cold winters but can get quite warm in a hot summer.

    I think you would have to dig a 1.2m x 1.2m “pond” by about 2m deep to accommodate the slinky.
    You will need others more cleverer than wot I am to work out if there’s enough heat/ energy flowing through at 10-15l/m to extract any useful amount.
    I don’t know about the height difference - ours is the other way around, goes uphill several metres to the end of the slinkies.

    If you take the water itself from the stream you will need an abstraction license even though it’s all going back in.

    On the plus side you won’t need planning permission for a water source heat pump if the garden is your domestic curtilage because it is now Permitted Development.
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeAug 12th 2021
     
    For the pipework query, if the collector flow and return have the same head(height above the stream) then both legs are balanced and the head is irrelevant. Its only the resistance of the collector pipework that the pump has to overcome. Where ground source collectors in boreholes are used they can go way deeper than 15 metres.

    If youre pumping the stream water up to the house then thats a different matter as the lift pump has to overcome the 15metre head and the pipework resistance...... maybe that was the set up where the head concerns were raised??

    Before committing to rely on the stream flow to carry enough heat year round, Id want to be sure that the flow in a dry winter period was sufficient to carry enough heat in a cold dry period.
  4.  
    I was wondering whether time might be my friend. You'd think there'd be some kind of extension/enhancement of the RHI scheme in response to the latest IPCC report. But I don't want to count on that!

    I've seen pics of those slinkys. I doubt 'd get permission to put one of them in the stream bed - the stream isn't actually in my garden, it's just beyond. I have a pipe going into it to extract water which I mainly use for irrigation. We're allowed 20,000 litres a day without needing an abstraction licence. I wonder if 20,000 litres of water would be enough?

    Well, I've just written to Kensa anyway.

    Thanks.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 12th 2021
     
    I am worried about the rate of extraction of heat and likelyhood of freezing the pond up completely
  5.  
    For the pipework I would dig a bucket say 500lts down by the stream that would be filled from the stream and put a submersible pump in it. Then run pipework to the house below the frost line both flow and return. The return I would put into the stream not into the 500ltr bucket. Done this way there would be no air lock problems with the pipe work and the pumping effort would be pipe resistance only.
    The heat pump would be at the house with a heat exchanger. If you put the slinky down by the stream you will loose heat as the slinky won't get up to the same temp. as the stream so the heat pump will start off with an input colder than the stream temp.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 12th 2021 edited
     
    Having the down leg gravity-balance the up leg won't happen if it's an open system (vented to atmosphere at the house) - only if it's a closed system (at the house). That wd be true whether you're circulating actual stream water (pipe open both ends at the stream), or you're circulating 'indirect' water thro a heat exchanger in the stream.
  6.  
    20,000 litres a day is only enough for a few kW of heat. Would be much cheaper to generate that amount of heat using a small ASHP.

    If the house needs more kW of heating than that, consider a big ASHP or GSHP ?
  7.  
    I spoke to someone from Kensa who said a starting point would be a detailed assessment of the house insulation levels. I should submit a preliminary description of the house and its insulation levels, and then I'd have to pay for someone to come around and and do a survey of sorts. I objected - the house is a 1950's semi which I have added bits to over the last 20 years. In some places the insulation and airtightness is excellent, other places much less so. An assessment based on levels of insulation and floor area seems unlikely to be accurate. Besides, we never want every room in the house to be toasty on the coldest day of winter. We frequently only heat a room or two, and have much lower temperatures in other parts of the house. My efforts to increase insulation levels have been based on the way we use our house.

    I suggested a simpler approach would be to go by the output of our current gas boiler. It is sufficient for our needs. The output is known, so surely we could choose the heat pump system to match? From what I understood, this wouldn't be acceptable as the house assessment as described was part of applying for RHI payments.

    I'm really not very good at jumping through hoops unless I can clearly see the reason for doing so....
  8.  
    That’s the trouble with the RHI - the system has to be designed to heat the whole house to 20 or 21 degrees (can’t remember which)
    I had the same question with our farmhouse - anything is better than the oil boiler which is 30kW but we hardly use - we have the house colder than most people would tolerate.
    It has to all be worked out carefully to calculate the RHI payments. Gave up with it in the end to concentrate on the one in the barn conversion because it was more straightforward to work out (just waiting for the plumber to come now and connect it all up). Plus I quickly realised there wouldn’t be enough spare funds in the budget to do the house as well. It’s a shame really because we fully intend to switch the house over to a heat pump at some stage but we will miss the RHI deadline.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeAug 14th 2021
     
    Posted By: Dominic CooneyThat’s the trouble with the RHI - the system has to be designed to heat the whole house to 20 or 21 degrees (can’t remember which)
    I had the same question with our farmhouse - anything is better than the oil boiler which is 30kW but we hardly use - we have the house colder than most people would tolerate.

    At a guess, is the RHI designed to make sure that whatever work is paid for from public funds is designed to produce a result that can be used by the man on the Clapham omnibus after you move out, rather than a system designed just to meet the requirements of the current occupier?
  9.  
    Posted By: John Pedersendetailed assessment of the house insulation levels

    We had lengthy discussions about this, with photographs etc because the oldest parts are uninsulated then there are various extensions from different periods e.g. 70s and 80s
  10.  
    Posted By: djhused by the man on the Clapham omnibus after you move out

    Yes it would be awful if a subsequent owner ripped out a GSHP system and put in an oil boiler so that they could sit around in their pants in the winter!
    • CommentAuthorRobL
    • CommentTimeAug 14th 2021
     
    A smart meter comes in very handy here. We have one, and it logs daily gas use - the maximum daily gas use could be used to size a heatpump. If you heat the whole house to 21C or thereabouts, then the peak kwh/day divided by 24 is the heatpump power minimum needed. I expect this will be a lot more accurate than a paper assessment of insulation levels, etc, as it includes the ‘performance gap’ between intended and actual insulation automatically. I suppose you may have a mild versus harsh winter affecting things, but it must be possible to account for this with a small tweek.
  11.  
    The man on the Clapham omnibus should perhaps try living a bit further north. When we moved up here, it took a while to acclimatise, but now we find 21deg is extravagantly warm, and 17-18 Deg is comfortable for most of the rooms for most of the day. We now avoid going to Clapham as it is much too warm for us (among other reasons).

    The MCS standard heat calculation spreadsheet indicates that we 'need' 21degC, so we 'need' an ASHP that is more powerful than our current oil boiler is.

    However, we hear stories from neighbours with ASHPs, who expected to come home, switch the ASHP on, and be hot within half an hour. As this doesn't happen, they are badmouthing ASHPs to anyone who listens as 'not powerful enough'. The MCS perhaps cannot win if they approve installations with modestly sized HPs.
  12.  
    I guess I was just thinking I should make more effort on account of climate change, but I live on a tiny income, and I guess I'm likely going to have to wait and see what further government initiatives are created. They'll have to do something to incentivise Joe Public to make the switch. I didn't want to wait for that, but I don't want to fork out a bundle based on the cost of heating every room to 21 degrees, and then have the government give me annual compensation payments. Perhaps lots of people will be holding back, waiting to see what the incentives might be. In that sense, lack of government action is holding up the switch to heat pumps.
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