Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




    • CommentAuthormaxelaine
    • CommentTimeNov 19th 2015
     
    We're building a 90sqm floor area house, on 2 storeys, to near-passive-house levels of insulation & airtightness. Our designer, who is PH-approved, says that she could only do heat load calculations if we were going for PassivHaus certification, which would cost £12k (and therefore well past our budget), and that the heating engineers will do it.

    We've had one proposal (Earth Save Products) who are recommending a 4 to 12 Kw ASHP, and another, from Ice Energy, recommending a 5Kw (max) ASHP.

    How do I begin to make sense of this?
  1.  
    I would speak to Peter Warm for advice about PH calculation costs. I found them very helpful. I don't know what you're getting for the 12k but it seems steep.
  2.  
    Your designer is having a laugh! How can she justify not doing a PHPP? How is she going to optimize the design to give you the lowest possible heat load? How are you expected to know how good her design is if she doesn't give you any figures to judge it on?

    At the outside a PHPP should cost (IMO) no more than £2k and if the design is not particularly complex less.

    You don't say where you are located which will have a bearing on you heat load but in most parts of the UK a 5kW heat pump will be sufficient for a low energy house of your size.
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeNov 19th 2015
     
    maxelaine,

    ....assuming you are building in UK, look at your (design stage?) SAP calcs for the projected heat loss, and give the SAP calcs to your HP system designer/supplier.

    It can save you £'000s in the short term (& long run possibly?).

    Good luck:smile:
  3.  
    I did my own heat loss calculation using a Quinn Radiators Calculator and used the CIBSE Heat Pump guidelines.

    Went with an 8.5kw ASHP for a 1910 mid terrace that has been upgraded , walls 0.3 U-Value, windows and roof insulation.

    I'd expect yours to be a lot less...
  4.  
    Posted By: maxelaineWe're building a 90sqm floor area house, on 2 storeys, to near-passive-house levels of insulation & airtightness. Our designer, who is PH-approved, says that she could only do heat load calculations if we were going for PassivHaus certification, which would cost £12k (and therefore well past our budget), and that the heating engineers will do it.

    We've had one proposal (Earth Save Products) who are recommending a 4 to 12 Kw ASHP, and another, from Ice Energy, recommending a 5Kw (max) ASHP.


    If you're building to PH levels of insulation/air-tightness, there's NO WAY you have such a high heatload, unless the plan is to use the ASHP to also provide hot water.

    I live in a 185m^2 (plus 90m^2 heated basement) ancient house with hardly any insulation, and my heatload at an outside temperature of -23C (!) is only 15kW.

    Paul in Montreal.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 19th 2015
     
    Posted By: maxelaineWe're building a 90sqm floor area house, on 2 storeys, to near-passive-house levels of insulation & airtightness. Our designer, who is PH-approved, says that she could only do heat load calculations if we were going for PassivHaus certification

    That's nonsense. Certification is a separate exercise that costs a few thousand. Claiming to design to 'near-passive-house levels of insulation' would require the designer to run PHPP on the design to have any idea whether she is 'near' or not. But as a separate line item, all I can think is that there's an extra 0 on the end of the price! What's the reason for building 'near' rather than to the standard by the way? What qualifications and experience does your designer have? Is she registered with a trade body?

    As Daryl says, the mandatory SAP calcs are a good starting point for estimating but they are notoriously unreliable for well-insulated houses. A passivhaus of your size should have a maximum heat load of around 1.1 kW. Plus DHW requirement of course.
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeNov 19th 2015 edited
     
    The designer who specced a lot of my house insulation and AT details, upon receiving my complaint that rdSAP wasn't accurate enough, said that I'd really need to go for full PHPP if I wanted to know with any measure of accuracy. He then bandied a figure of around 4K, which was for 2 houses (semis) of 250 and 280sqm, a complex design as a retrofit of an existing building.. so the other suggestions of 1.2 - 2K seems more like the ballpark, rather than 12.

    Both the rdSAP and the BSEN12831 figures for my place (done by 2 independent people) have been high, maybe 30-40% over say each of the professionals involved. Alas, it's what they have to use when sizing a heat pump if it is to be properly registered for RHI (because the legislation requires that a pump cover 100% of the heat demand on the coldest day ever in the darkest winter than never really happens, lest Mrs Miggins be misled by some unscrupulous installer about just how much of the heating comes from the heat pump versus the immersion heater/hybrid fossil device as it sits there covering some lacking percentage when it's baltic outside and sending the electric bill through the roof)..

    Upshot is in your well insulated house you may well end up installing something that is oversized by following these guidances - if youre going for the RHI. Oversizing can have consequences for the length of time a pump will last before the compressor fails :/
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeNov 19th 2015
     
    cjard, rdSAP is reduced-data! No self-respecting HP system designer would consider the figures from rdSAP...:angry:
    • CommentAuthormaxelaine
    • CommentTimeNov 22nd 2015
     
    Thanks for comments. I now have the design SAP, which shows the highest space heating requirement as 606.52 KwH in the month of December.

    You should probably do something more sophisticated, but if you divide that by the number of days you get roughly 20KwH per day, which is a bit less than 1Kw if the load was constant.

    Anyone suggest a reasonable maximum heat load? Seems to me 5Kw would be more than enough, but I'm really only guessing.

    Anyone know if ASHP's are available which will run at less than 1Kw constant output, because it seems that for much of the time we'll need less than that.
    • CommentAuthormaxelaine
    • CommentTimeNov 23rd 2015
     
    Thanks Daryl P
    This is from SAP version 9.92
    The 606.52 was from box 98 - kWh/month - December (the highest month)

    The Heat Transfer coefficient, box 39, is 108.38 for December, which *24 is 2,601 - or 2.6kW. January is slightly higher (is it presumed to be windier?) at 109.13, which * 24 gives 2,619.

    Can anyone point me to somewhere that explains all these boxes? some of them don't even make it clear what units are used.
    • CommentAuthorhomebaker
    • CommentTimeNov 23rd 2015
     
    maxelaine,

    Posted By: maxelaineWe're building a 90sqm floor area house, on 2 storeys, to near-passive-house levels of insulation & airtightness. Our designer, who is PH-approved, says that she could only do heat load calculations if we were going for PassivHaus certification, which would cost £12k (and therefore well past our budget), and that the heating engineers will do it.

    How do I begin to make sense of this?


    I sympathise, as we have a not dissimilar situation. We recently bought a low energy house of 148sq.m, built in 2008 with high levels of insulation and air-tightness of 1.45 air changes/hour @50Pa.
    We planned initially to apply for EnerPHit certification, and retained a PHI certified consultant, who produced a full PHPP assessment. EnerPHit was achievable, but with some debatably thermal bridge issues, we were put off by the PHI certification fees and thermal bridge checking calculations quoted by a second firm of around £4000 inc VAT.
    We therefore decided to settle for AECB Silver Performance certification, which was obtained in October.
    Our total fees for full PHPP analysis, creation of full CAD files from combination of various original suppliers CAD files (chiefly timber frame supplier plus GBS for triple glazed windows) & certification process was nearly £5,000 inc VAT. We are satisfied with that, but appreciate that there were few options on a complex second hand building.
    We have just put out a performance spec to several ASHP installation specialists, assuming they will install an inverter HP to satisfy a peak demand of 2.6kW, calculated in PHPP, plus provision for DHW. That will probably result in HP of 5/6kW.
    The main problem will lie with the MCS calculation to BS EN12831, which are necessary to receive RHI payments. The mandatory software assumes a heating load which is roughly twice our needs, due to assumed ventilation losses. It will not permit use of our tested level of airtightness.
    We are anticipating a HP of around 12kW to be able to make the RHI application.
    Maybe this will all become academic if The Chancellor alters RHI within the spending review – in which case the choice is made for us – and we will probably specify the correctly sized Panasonic Aquarea G/High Performance HP, or 5th Generation Samsung EHS. Both have the right sized pumps with good COP performance and low noise levels.
    I hope our experience and some of the figures I have mentioned will help you.

    Posted By: maxelaineWe've had one proposal (Earth Save Products) who are recommending a 4 to 12 Kw ASHP, and another, from Ice Energy, recommending a 5Kw (max) ASHP.


    Incidentally I completed the lengthy Ice Energy pro-forma with our details, plus notes, following phone calls to them, and never heard back. Caveat emptor!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 23rd 2015
     
    Posted By: homebaker

    Excellent post!

    The main problem will lie with the MCS calculation to BS EN12831, which are necessary to receive RHI payments. The mandatory software assumes a heating load which is roughly twice our needs, due to assumed ventilation losses. It will not permit use of our tested level of airtightness.

    Gah! RHI always did strike me as cack-handed (and I speak as a leftie) in rewarding inefficient fabrics more than efficient ones, but that takes the biscuit. Talk about adding insult to injury!
    • CommentAuthorgreenkeith
    • CommentTimeNov 24th 2015
     
    I would like to offer the following observations based purely on my own experience.
Our house is an end of terrace home built about 1975. After a small extension it now has a floor area of 98 sq metres and an internal volume of 252 cu metres. 
We have insulated as much as we can with cavity wall insulation, 3 layers of insulation in the loft, some internal wall insulation in the bathroom and above the stairwell, ( using plaster board backed by 42 mm of foam ), good double glazing throughout, and a well insulated front door. 
The heating before the extension was an 11.7 kw gas fired back boiler with radiators. Just before building work started we were informed that our gas fire was obsolete and could not be repaired if it broke down. To cut a long story short we ended up in an extended house without any central heating system. To survive the first winter we bought a 2kw electric fire which we had in the lounge and being open plan it also kept the bedrooms warm. We now have an air to air heat pump ( no hot water ) with the inverter the lounge. It is rated at only 1kw. That has proved quite large enough to keep the house warm even in the coldest winter. We are now fully electric but even so we have reduced our consumption from 18500 kwhrs per year to just over 5000 kwhrs . We rarely use more than 25 kWh's per day and at christmas with a house full of people we can sometimes switch the heating off. I hope that helps.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 24th 2015
     
    Sounds like you've done well Greenkeith. Useful to remind people that existing houses can be brought up to this level.

    A few questions:

    1) Did you add/do you have any insulation in the ground floor?

    2) Do you have any form of deliberate ventilation (passive or active, heat recovery, etc)? Have you had a pressure test done on the house?

    3) How long is your heating season? Some time in October to some time in April?

    4) How do you heat water?

    Don't want to go too far off topic but I think those are at least tangentially relevant to what sort of ASHP makes sense.
    • CommentAuthorgreenkeith
    • CommentTimeNov 24th 2015
     
    In reply to Ed Davies.

    When we did our small extension we extended the kitchen and turned the garage into a useful room. Half of the kitchen now has an insulated floor and the garage has a completely insulated floor. We didn't attempt to dig up the lounge and insulate that, so that it remains the original uninsulated concrete slab.
    

When it comes to ventilation , I did intend to install a whole house ventilation system with heat recovery. Sadly it was not to be. It soon became obvious that there were so many problems with the installation that I decided not to go ahead.
    

I have experimented with my own pressure test but it didn't yield any measurable results. However simply trying to do it led me me discover leakage routes that I previously hadn't given much thought to. So not a complete waste of time. 

With only 3 of us living in the house ventilation doesn't seem to be much of a problem. I can't find any obvious draughts and it never seems to get stuffy so I can only assume that the normal traffic through the doors covers our needs.
    We dry all our washing indoors too, on drying rack in the stair well but even that doesn't cause problems either, although we have got a dehumidifier on standby, but again thats hardly ever used.
    

Last year the heating season was from Oct 6th to 9 April, This year I waited until Oct 10.
    

The small amount of stored hot water that we need comes from an immersion heater. We have a bath thats hardly ever used, instead we use an electric shower. Likewise the dishwasher and washing machine also heat their own water. 

Before we modified the garage, the end wall was a single brick wall which separated it from our lounge. We were in effect separated from the outside world by a single brick uninsulated wall. Now of course it is an internal wall.
    I have 'nt got any figures for it but I think that that has produced some useful gains on its own.
    It would be nice to have a pressure test done but so far the cost has put me off. 


    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeNov 24th 2015
     
    greenkeith, where in the UK are you? :-)

    Posted By: greenkeiththe cost has put me off
    • CommentAuthorgreenkeith
    • CommentTimeNov 24th 2015
     
    We live about 6 miles from Buckingham.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 24th 2015
     
    Thanks Greenkeith. Good to know that you've got the heating down to a kW or so even with a noticeable amount of uninsulated ground floor and only fairly minor airtightness measures.
    • CommentAuthormaxelaine
    • CommentTimeNov 24th 2015
     
    Greenkeith, that does get things into perspective, thanks for sharing your experience.

    According to the SAP, our space heating demand for the year is roughly 2,400 kWh, and DHW roughly 1,900.

    We're thinking of an Ecocent for DHW, and whilst some of that demand will be pumped up via the ASHP, some will come from excess MVHR exhaust heat. Still sounds as though a 1 to 5 kW ASHP is more appropriate than a 4 to 12 kW one!
    • CommentAuthorgreenkeith
    • CommentTimeNov 25th 2015
     
    In reply to Maxelaine.
    

It sounds to me that you are building the sort of house that I would have loved to live in. Our house is open plan so like it or not the heat from the living room goes upstairs. For along time I thought it was a curse, now its become a blessing. 
 When I was trying to improve our house my bible was , “ The Green Building Bible “ . 
The article by John Cantor about heat pumps I found very useful. Partly as a result of that I decided to avoid the Heat Pump to hot water route. It saved a lot on the installation costs, but of course every family is different, perhaps you need gallons of hot water per day. We hardly use any.
    
You quote 2400kwhrs as the heating load. I would guess that that is about where we are. So that our 1kw heat pump with a COP of say 2.5 ( I can only guess at this ) is more than enough to heat our house. We normally run it a low fan speed so I am guessing that it is having an easy life.
The heat pump is now the sole source of heating for the whole house although we have a number of fan heaters and a wall mounted electric heater in the lounge. We have never switched it on once since the heat pump was installed.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeNov 25th 2015
     
    One issue is that most people expect heating to work QUICKLY and think of the thermerstat as a on/off switch.

    So a heat pump sized for study state, does not work well if the tenants/owners are "normal people", hence some of the very bad real world results in social housing with heat pumps.

    Should a system be design for how we wish people to use it, or how they WILL use it......
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 25th 2015 edited
     
    Posted By: ringiOne issue is that most people expect heating to work QUICKLY and think of the thermerstat as a on/off switch.

    So a heat pump sized for study state, does not work well if the tenants/owners are "normal people", hence some of the very bad real world results in social housing with heat pumps.

    Should a system be design for how we wish people to use it, or how they WILL use it......

    One obvious solution is to size the heat pump for steady state and use simple resistance heating (e.g. a fan heater) for when instant or excess heat is desired. In theory, the fan heater ought to be used rarely enough that its efficiency of only 100% should not matter. But I wonder how it would fare in the real world. Has anybody come across this case?
  5.  
    Posted By: maxelaineWe're thinking of an Ecocent for DHW, and whilst some of that demand will be pumped up via the ASHP, some will come from excess MVHR exhaust heat. Still sounds as though a 1 to 5 kW ASHP is more appropriate than a 4 to 12 kW one!
    The Ecocent DHW system will take heat from your house which will need to be replaced by the ASHP. In theory, you can connect an Ecocent to the MVHR exhaust & thereby make use of waste heat. However, there are 2 issues with this:

    1. The Ecocent requires an air flow rate of 350m3/h (200 litre unit). This is unlikely to be a match for the MVHR exhaust air flow rate;

    2. For a reasonably efficient MVHR, the exhaust air temperature will be close to outside air temperature. So the Ecocent power output and COP will be significantly reduced. Last time I looked at this the Ecocent power output & COP fell off very quickly below room temperature. So I concluded that its only good for recycling waste or excess heat.

    David
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
 
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press