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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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      CommentAuthorecoworrier
    • CommentTimeFeb 21st 2007
     
    I would like to hear your thoughts.
    In situations were replacing existing window units is not ideal or necessary ie. listed building.
    Is it beneficial to have secondary double glazing or would single glazed units be sufficient?
    Does the gap between the panes matter (when its more than 16mm), say as much as 100mm?
    • CommentAuthorbiffvernon
    • CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2007
     
    Beneficial for what? Sufficient for what?

    If the important thing is maintaing external appearance, then secondary glazing can be sufficiently discrete not to detract from that appearance. Gaps beyond around 20 mm allow convection which significantly reduce the thermal resistance of the window, though may improve sound insulation.

    In a building whose interior is of special historic significance, the internal appearance of secondary glazing may be unacceptable. In such a case the use of other energy saving measures may be given a higher priority.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2007
     
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2007
     
    Draught proofing is very much more important than double glazing. Very often replacement windows don't even do this so the huge cost is literally blown away. If for aesthetic reasons double glazed units cannot be used then just sort out the draughts and you will be OK. New windows take a very long time to pay back anyway.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2007
     
    Just to get started on the airtightness campaign, while thinking of windows, never mind the opening-light seals, how to draughtproof around the *outside* edge of the window frame? Half the time there's not even any bit of wall that's impervious, to seal to, even if you could reach the joint. Think at the level of 'every pinhole and hairline'. 90% perfection is better than nothing? - no, it's hardly worth it! It's a whole can of worms.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2007
     
    Even if you do get the outside done you have a long way to go yet. Under the sill? and then from the cavity into the room or into the frame and out again into the room easy with hollow frames. In through the glazing seals or drainage holes etc.

    Then there are the dreaded trickle vents --- can of worms ?? a whole bucket full !!
    • CommentAuthorbiffvernon
    • CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2007
     
    I know it's unfashionable, but I'm one of those creatures who finds breathing quite useful. I really don't like airtight houses.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2007
     
    You must know jolly well Biff that it's easy to arrange deliberate ventilation, just how you like it, what's difficult is to get rid of perpetual unwanted leakage.
    • CommentAuthorken davis
    • CommentTimeMar 30th 2007
     
    have just done the training for domestic energy assessor, you will not be too pleased to hear that double glazing only gives you a maximum of 4 extra points of SAP rating. leave dg until max. insulation and airtightness is achieved and condensing boiler (or better)is installed.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 30th 2007
     
    Ken, can you make a new topic of this - with compulsory HIPs/Energy Ratings coming in in July we need to know how it's going to work, whether it bears any resemblance to reality etc.
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