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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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Housing - New Build: sip architect

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1 to 13 of 13

  1.  
    • CommentAuthorflexon
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2014
     
    Hi all
    I am new to forum and new to self build I am embarking on a very small bungalow 10mtrs x 9metrs to be constructed on greenbelt land my problem is I know very little about my chosen material and neither doese the retired draftsman I have engaged to do my drawing although we are not too far down the drawing route im wondering if i should cut my losses and try to find someone who is knowlagable in sip constuction or trust that the company i decided to use to make my pannels will interprate his drawings sufficiently.
    I think what im trying to get to is there anyone one here that could recommend s architect in the wirral erea who may be better suited to my needs ie sip construction and the stricked requirements of building on greenbelt lsnd.
    Sorry for being so long winded but my situation is a lot more complicated than I have time or space to go into here.
    • CommentAuthorPaulJ
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2014
     
    If the drawings are for planning consent you don't need to specify the construction method (brick / block / timber frame / SIPs) but may have to indicate the surface finishes.

    If the drawings are for building regs / construction, the SIP company will convert the planning drawings to work with their system and produce most of the information. You may need your architect / structural engineer to detail foundations, drainage etc.
    • CommentAuthorneilu
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2014
     
    I agree with Paul, certainly not for the planning stage.

    I used to work at an architects doing house construction drawings and I would have been very confident of providing good construction drawings involving SIP's. Particularly for a bungalow where there is no first floor to support. I'd just draw it using the system details provided by the SIP's company. The SIP's company will provide details.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2014
     
    One problem I have is that some things become unbuidable if you want a properly insulated house, eg dormer windows so I like to design insulation and the capacity for it.

    I rejected my own plans drawn by my architect three times.
    • CommentAuthorflexon
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2014
     
    Thank you all for your advice very much appreciated.
    • CommentAuthorflexon
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2014
     
    Hello again all.
    Can anyone tell me if it is financially realistic to have a flat roof on my 10 x 9mtr bungalow also of "sip" material or should I be thinking of using something differant ? The reason for a flat roof is that by not having a 22 degree pitched roof will allow me to increase the cubic meter size by mabe a pressious linear meter or so. pathetic I know but my council's rules on greenbelt construction is I'm positive in place to deter anyone but the large construction companies from building anything habitable. .
    Any imput/advice is very much appreciated.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2014
     
    Don't what ever you do build it with a flat roof (unless you are selling it :wink: ), it will leak.
    • CommentAuthormarkocosic
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2014
     
    Steel sandwich panel for the roof?

    http://www.kingspanpanels.co.uk/standing-seam-systems/product/kingzip-ip/

    It'll happily sit at 5 degrees; even less nominally...

    Fugly mind.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2014
     
    Best that Kingspan stuff can do is 0.15 W/(m²·K). Not terrible but really should be able to do better.

    Building (camp/caravan site shower block) near me has it. Not too bad looking for a shallow roof - the owner (who built it) suggested it for my house but the limited thickness put me off - not obvious how to do a bit more insulation on the inside without entertaining vapour control issues.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2014
     
    No vapour control issues with those sheets at least not on the roof.
    • CommentAuthormarkocosic
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2014
     
    We've just stuck 'em on kid brother's house.

    Plasterboard. (old stuff is notionally vapour check but one can swing a cat through the gaps)
    120 mm mineral wool with rafters on ~400 centres (existing, 1960s)
    9 mm ply (existing, 1960s)
    Then 120 mm Kingspan over the top. (any more height would invoke the wrath of planners)

    It's an airtightness layer and a solid vapour barrier. Will condensation be an issue? I can't think it will be any worse than the (1960s warm roof) felt that it replaces, and as the ply is pristine after 50 years except for where the felt failed and rainwater got through we should be good.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 13th 2014
     
    Probably OK in practice but a quick and dirty condensation risk analysis says you just about get condensation on the mineral wool/steel interface if the indoor RH exceeds 62% if the vapour check really is ineffective - which you really need to assume given the lack of permeability of steel. Having some OSB at that interface to buffer intermittent moisture seems like a good idea. Perhaps a good place to use those intelligent vapour barriers as you'd be safer with some sort of vapour check layer but don't want water to get trapped.
  13.  
    We're having SIP v low pitch roof on a single storey section of house. My architect and SIP provider both have no problem with it. We're adding an additional 100m of PUR and having a zinc covering. The zinc will be fixed to a ply deck which sits on battens to provide ventilation.

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