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Heating and cooling: Calling Kinetic MVHR users - remote boost control upgrade

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  1.  
    • CommentAuthorSwarm
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2016
     
    I've experienced issues with the humidistat in my Kinetic where it will cycle between low mode and boost at night. So I've just turned off the humidistat.

    This is not ideal for showers etc. so I'm wondering about using Z-wave home automation (which I already use and am familiar with) and humidity sensors in each room, or possibly little switches in bathrooms for manual control. Or both!

    I'm posting in the hope that someone more proficient in electrical setup can assist a little bit. I can do all the home automation side but don't quite get the wiring of how the following will interact:

    Fibaro switch manual: http://manuals.fibaro.com/content/manuals/en/FGS-222/FGS-222-EN-A-v1.01.pdf

    From the Kinetic manual:

    "The unit can be switched to boost by a variety of methods:
     Applying 240 V to the LS input .
     Switching across 1 of 5 pairs of switch terminals.
     Applying between 0 and 10 V as a proportional input to two input terminals. "

    Page 23 / 24 of the Kinetic manual is relevant: http://www.vent-axia.com/files/pdf-downloads/439817Q_4.pdf

    Any help much appreciated, or I will have to try Vent Axia support and hope they're helpful. :)
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2016
     
    I'm not familiar with either the Kenetic or the Fibaro but it looks pretty straight forward.

    If your Kenetic has the LS wire wired up through a 3-pole isolator then it seems it would be easiest to use that, wiring the Fibaro to switch that on through the isolator just like it would turn on the live to anything else. If you've only got a 2-pole isolator then maybe you can wire the Fibaro on the isolated side to the LS input of the Kenetic.

    You might be able to directly use the outputs of the Fibaro to drive one of the SW pairs of the Kenetic, I'm not sure how isolated the switch contacts are. Less riskily, you could use it to drive a mains-coil relay and use that to switch one of those pairs.
      dsc01989-small.jpg
    • CommentAuthorSwarm
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2016
     
    Now you have very kindly drawn that, I see it's not as complicated as I thought. I hugely appreciate the clarification thank you!
  4.  
    I've got a Sentinal Kinetic Plus controlled by my Loxone home automation system.

    The pairs of switch terminals are volt-free - they don't need 240V across them. From memory I just connected those terminals to a relay in my Loxone cabinet. When the relay is closed the system switches to Boost.

    I cant' see it in the manual you've linked to but my Kinetic has an alternative control mode intended for use with automation systems with the volt free switches having different functions.
    On mine there is one for fans off (connected to my fire alarm), one for Low (used when the house is empty) and one for Boost (driven by humidistats in bathrooms and other inputs).

    From the Fibaro manual it obviously expects you to be driving a 240V load from the Fibaro relay but it looks like you might not have to connect the L to the 'In' terminal. In that case you could use the 'In' as a common and have it attached to two volt free inputs on your Kinetic to get more control.

    The Fibaro terminals look quite close together though - from an electrical safety point of view having 240V and low (no) voltage that close together isn't good.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 6th 2016
     
    Posted By: Simon StillFrom the Fibaro manual it obviously expects you to be driving a 240V load from the Fibaro relay but it looks like you might not have to connect the L to the 'In' terminal. In that case you could use the 'In' as a common and have it attached to two volt free inputs on your Kinetic to get more control.
    Yes, that's what I thought. But the lack of any specification of the maximum voltage difference between the switch terminals and the control circuits had me worried that they weren't completely separate. I'd expect some number like 1 kV or something. Maybe there's a more comprehensive specification somewhere.

    The Fibaro terminals look quite close together though - from an electrical safety point of view having 240V and low (no) voltage that close together isn't good.
    Yes, also possibly worrying but they seem to be happy with having line and neutral adjacent so the terminals must be reasonably well isolated. Just use decent wire.
  6.  
    http://www.vesternet.com/blog/2015/04/fibaro-relays-new-versions-available/

    mentions using it as a dry contact. That you have to connect the incoming voltage to the L terminal rather than it being internally connected suggests it can be used that way as well.
    • CommentAuthorSwarm
    • CommentTimeSep 6th 2016
     
    Simon, that's very interesting that you can switch to low mode as well as boost, or turn it off. I wonder if your Kinetic plus has some optional extra installed allowing this?
  8.  
    See Appendix 1 in this doc -

    Installation and commissioning -
    http://www.vent-axia.com/files/pdf-downloads/439817%20U_1.pdf

    I'm now puzzled by the user manual description of Summer Bypass - I can't see any detail of how you're meant to enable these Evening and Night purge modes.....

    http://www.vent-axia.com/files/pdf-downloads/442073%20T.pdf
    Page 4

    Evening purge Mode.
    Intended for use as the outdoor temperature cools in the evening, but reverts to normal control after a set time so
    that any increase in noise is avoided overnight.
    Air flow rate is always at boost.
    The bypass closes and the purge stops if the temperature conditions described in Standard Mode are no longer
    met or 5 hours after the bypass opened.

    Night-time purge Mode.
    Intended for use as the outdoor temperature cools in the evening and continues through the night when cooling is
    a higher priority than any increase of noise.

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