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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2014 edited
     
    In another thread the following was suggested
    Posted By: ringiAt least for someone with PV, once local stored energy systems becomes cheaper, the energy should be stored in the home, topped up with PV, and then at time of least demand if not enough PV.

    Maybe even sending 12v or 24v direct to all the LED lights without converting to 240v.
    So I'm planning a new build, if I had solar panels, just how difficult would it be to have 12 or 24v lighting?
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2014
     
    On grid, I don't really see the point. Even off-grid it's not obvious it make sense.

    Batteries of any substantial capacity are likely to be more than 24 V; 48 V or more.

    LEDs are essentially constant current, rather than constant voltage, devices so there's going to be electronics of some sort (even it it's just a series resistor) between the battery and the LED string. Going via an inverter to mains will insert some losses in the chain but on the other hand will allow cheap off-the-shelf devices and direct operation from the mains.
    • CommentAuthorsnyggapa
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2014
     
    12v lighting is feasible as I did it in my new build, but it was stepped down from 240v rather than battery run.

    I did it as I could control the low voltages centrally, and have the 240-12v conversion done in one place which I hoped was more efficient than a large numver of smaller cheaper transformers.

    Steve
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2014
     
    Worth remembering that low voltage is below a 1000V, and that Power (W) = Volts times Amps.
    So you may need quite substantial wiring for a 12V system, and if it is DC the switching is different.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2014
     
    Yep, most light switches, etc, are likely not rated for DC. Of course, they'll be fine for LED level currents (4 amps+ for 12 V, 50 W halogen might be somewhat different) but as they're not officially rated for DC you might have trouble getting a bright but not quite bright-enough electrician to sign them off.

    Aren't there special rules for low voltage lighting making installation (even) more restrictive than for mains? That's on account of the high currents for ELV halogens, etc, but AFAIK not making an exemption for low-current lighting.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2014
     
    Would have to dig out my Part P book, but I think your right.

    James Ingram will know.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2014
     
    Steve, could you tell us more about your 12 V lighting? How it's switched, particularly - e.g., is it 12 V or mains (or something else) at the switches? Does the central 240 V→12 V conversion get switched off when there are no lights on? How?
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2014
     
    Nothing planned, just saw the post I quoted in my OP and wondered if it were possible and was it worth it?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2014
     
    I would say not worth it unless you were off grid and had batteries anyway.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2014
     
    If your off grid you would probably be running a higher voltage system anyway, then putting it though an inverter to get the frequency and voltage.
    There are good reasons to use AC, the market place is set up for it.
    Car manufacturers are trying to agree a standard to have higher voltage, more important with the growth of EVs.
    • CommentAuthorsnyggapa
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2014
     
    My lighting is in 2 distinct parts. All are permanently powered so the 240->12v transformers are live all the time , idle power consumption is about 1W for the lot so imperfect but managable.

    The control side is all driven by an arduino, so a (5V) digital pin is connected to every lightswitch in the house via normal 1.5mm cable and the arduino senses when the pin is grounded. I used momentary switches to allow for some control options like long presses , short presses, double presses , whatever. Most of this hasn't been implemented yet :)

    So the arduino has a memory list of the states of each lighting circuit and adjusts this when switches are pressed. It then has a DMX library and issues DMX commands down a cat5 cable to the "lighting" side

    The lighting side is a bunch of DMX 12v 3 channel controllers - permanently powered by the 12V PSUs and connected in daisy chain to the arduino. The arduino, by the magic of DMX can individually turn on or off (or using PWM, dim) any channel on any controller. I have 6 controllers so 18 different lighting circuits on the house, so there is a (1.5mm?) cable from each controller channel to where the lights are.

    House is very small footprint and control units are central ,so voltage drop was a concern but not a problem in practice

    Will try and draw up a schematic if I get a chance. The arduino runs code I wrote so in theory I can make any button press perform any lighting action - or control remotely over the Internet, etc.

    -Steve
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2014
     
    Thanks Steve - sounds like quite a neat system. I guess the moral of this story is to wire all the light fittings and switches back to a central point then you can do as you please. That's my plan anyway - can start with a straightforward 240 V system then maybe do something more amusing later.
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2014
     
    Nice system steve - I take it you could write a smartphone app too which would allow you to monitor and control all the lights?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeDec 1st 2014
     
    I left a light on last night, but my phone was in the same room :devil:
    • CommentAuthorsnyggapa
    • CommentTimeDec 1st 2014
     
    yes, in theory you could control it with a smart phone / web browser. or program a holiday mode that replays the previous week's lighting patterns when you are away. both projects have been on the "to do list" for a couple of years now :) although I have done work on my home energy monitor and heating controller

    The only toy I did put in was a "long push" on the main switch in the main bedroom, which turns off all the lights in the house.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeDec 1st 2014
     
    Posted By: snyggapaThe only toy I did put in was a "long push" on the main switch in the main bedroom, which turns off all the lights in the house.
    That is a really good feature.
    If you extended this concept, you could have a similar system for the ringmain, turns off everything except essentials, such as a fridge.
    • CommentAuthortorrent99
    • CommentTimeDec 1st 2014
     
    Sounds like a nice system. Do you have any backup "dumb" lighting just in case the arduino develops a brain freeze?
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeDec 1st 2014
     
    A torch?
    • CommentAuthorsnyggapa
    • CommentTimeDec 1st 2014 edited
     
    Posted By: Ed DaviesA torch?


    and candles...

    Posted By: SteamyTea
    Posted By: snyggapaThe only toy I did put in was a "long push" on the main switch in the main bedroom, which turns off all the lights in the house.
    That is a really good feature.
    If you extended this concept, you could have a similar system for the ringmain, turns off everything except essentials, such as a fridge.


    The problem with this is 240v, which I'm not overly comfortable in dicking about with / creating a solution at this level of bodging.

    You can get plug in "remote controllable" plug devices, and control them from an arduino or other device via radio waves, but I suspect these days with modern appliances they use about as much power themselves as the devices that they are designed to turn off..
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeDec 1st 2014
     
    Design the software and let others worry about the hardware is the answer, did not do Abode any harm :wink:

    It should not be that hard to design a socket that has a radio controlled relay in it.
    • CommentAuthortorrent99
    • CommentTimeDec 1st 2014
     
    Doesn't really need to be radio waves, it can work on a line level protocol, even IP which would make it much more flexible. Internet of things anyone? This would really be the killer app for IPv6...
    • CommentAuthorsnyggapa
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2014 edited
     
    Here's a pic of my how lighting system ended up (or how the electrician left if before I did my bit)

    what's missing from that picture is the arduino, which was connected via a cat5 cable to the daisy chain of black boxes (DMX controllers) and to the din rail connection strips for the light switch contacts

    -Steve
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2014
     
    That's neat. So three power supplies each feeding two DMX controllers? I trust you've replaced those CAT5 patch leads between the DMX controllers with ones of more appropriate length. In some ways it might have been more relaxed to make the switch connections be completely separate from the connections for the actual lights - there's only really a single CAT5 between them - but it does give the flexibility to replace it all with a tighter connection in future.

    Did you have any problems with noise pick up on the inputs to the Arduino?
    • CommentAuthorsnyggapa
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2014
     
    Posted By: Ed DaviesThat's neat. So three power supplies each feeding two DMX controllers?


    yes, 1 PSU for 2 controllers (each controller has 3 channels, so 6 lighting circuits max 5A/60W each - but in practice I'm nowhere near that - the PSUs were 150W each). I did originally plan dimming (the arduino and DMX controllers can do it, but it made the PSUs literally scream. I assume some feedback between the PWM dimming and the switch mode on the PSU but I never looked into it - although someone thought that a capacitor across the PSU outputs might solve the problem, I never tried.

    Instead I have enough lighting circuits in each room that we dim by only turning some of the lights on, which works well for us. 6 different channels drive the kitchen for example, so we can control all of those independently to create "dimming" .

    Posted By: Ed DaviesI trust you've replaced those CAT5 patch leads between the DMX controllers with ones of more appropriate length.


    erm. did I mention something about a "to do" list..

    Posted By: Ed DaviesDid you have any problems with noise pick up on the inputs to the Arduino?


    surprsingly, no. It may be that I use a button library that requires a minimum length "press" of something like 50 milliseconds to register a switch (these are all momentary push switches drilled into a blanking faceplate) so I guess any noise is never consistently more that 50ms, so it's either not present or not picked up.
  1.  
    Oh how i look back on the old pendant light and switch by the door with fondness :cry:
  2.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: tony</cite>I would say not worth it unless you were off grid and had batteries anyway.</blockquote>
    I would say it`s very worthwhile if you have any sort of fear of RCD`s tripping, live in a rural area with supply failures of any sort including bad weather, let alone future grid cuts.
    I would also add keeping it simple makes sense, PV to battery, simple fuse to power failure contactor, Simple master switch, Photocell, PIR or timeclock to also drop the NC contacts of a suitable DC rating.

    My simple but convenient LED set up is operated by local occupancy detectors, saves turning on main 230v lights during a loo visit in the middle of the night.

    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: jamesingram</cite>Oh how i look back on the old pendant light and switch by the door with fondness<img src="/forum114/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/cry.gif" alt=":cry:" title=":cry:"></img></blockquote>
    James, the trade currently is not interested in non standard wiring, BC and insurance companies still require approved wiring to comply fire regs. etc. etc. I think it will be a long time with fondness of the old way !
  3.  
    What is the main benefit of low voltage lighting??
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2014
     
    If you're not running it off a low-voltage source (battery) the only one I can see being at all significant is keeping the electronics away from the warm light. For LEDs that really means having a constant current source - 12 V DC might help a bit but you still need electronics in the light fitting.
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