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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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Products: what is dry installed warm water underfloor heating please?

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  1.  
    This isn't electric underfloor heating and it's not warm water going through pipes in a screed and it's supposed to have faster reaction times to warm water pipes in screed. Any ideas please?
  2.  
    any links/examples ?
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeJun 26th 2009 edited
     
    .
  4.  
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJun 26th 2009 edited
     
    OSMA have several as well..

    http://osmaufh.wavin.com/master/master.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374305445916&middleTemplateName=oc_middle_service_sub_sub

    We have a mix of pipe in screed (under tile, stone and carpet) and foiled polystyrene under engineered wood flooring.

    Basically by "dry" they mean no screed. It means no waiting months for the screed to dry before laying a nice wood floor.
  6.  
    Thanks chaps. Can anyone tell me what kind of time period is needed to allow a 5 cm thick screed to dry (in summer)? Is it months?
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJul 9th 2009
     
    I was told 1 day per mm so 50cm is approx 50 days to 2 months to fully dry.

    If you are planning on laying wood flooring check with a meter.
  8.  
    Cost wise - would anyone know whether a 5 cm layer of concrete screed is cheaper or more expensive than getting a thicker layer of insulation / Celotex.

    The builders have left 20 cm for UFH + tile to be fitted but the UFH + tile only needs 15 cm. That means either my doors and windows are 5 cm higher than they should be or I need to fill a 5 cm gap to raise the floor ...

    (If you're wondering why they didn't put the doors in at the correct height when they knew the UFH was 15cm, that's what I'm wondering too ... )
  9.  
    EPS insulation is cheapest , do you already have insulation under the 200mm depth left for UFH ?
    because you'd need some
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJul 11th 2009
     
    Normally you leave something like 90mm insulation + 65-70mm UFH & screed + 15mm tiles and adhesive = 170ish. I'd increase the amount of insulation to make up the difference.

    Check that raising the floor doesn't have issues for your staircase. You should avoid having one step a different height to the rest as it's a hazard.

    If your builders aren't too bright... make 100% sure they do NOT use an aerated screed over the UFH... because it has insulating properties. Don't laugh I've heard of that happening.
    •  
      CommentAuthormrswhitecat
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2009 edited
     
    I'm not getting straight answers. One moment the 'extra' screed is needed to insulate before they put in the UFH, the next it's because the floor's too low.

    The way I thought the sandwich was built up was :

    - concrete slab (foundations)
    - plastic sheet
    - (say) 70 cm Celotex, shiney side down
    - clip track with PEX tube slinking through it
    - sand and cement screed just covering the clip track and PEX tubes (say 50 cm)
    - then tiles

    I guess there's more ways to skin a cat ... so they might not be doing this, but it seems daft, screed then more screed ... (I'm assuming they've installed a level floor in the first place).
  12.  
    This is why I find this forum so brilliant - I think I've just answered my own question by having a read of the thread with Springvale UFH insulation in it. My concrete slab is criss crossed all over with water pipes and possibly electric cabling so obviously the only way to level up the floor again is with a screed.

    Should I be worried about these pipes being buried so deep under my expensive stone travertine tiles?

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