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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJun 16th 2015
     
    I am currently planning my new build and as some of you will know I favour the Viking hous type raft foundation, however, call me tight fisted but I am loathed to fork out £ 1000(nearly) for an S.E. To design it for me. My architect will design a "normal" foundation which I can modify to Denby Dale type within the cost of the building regulations drawings. We are planning a brick outer skin so will still need a deep trench foundation for that skin. My question is, is it worth the cost of an S.E. Designed raft or is the Denby dale type a good option.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeJun 16th 2015
     
    I think it depends on the soil type you have and how much it costs to take waist away from the side.

    I expect that if your subsoil will take a Viking hous type raft foundation without much MOT, it may be the cheapest option.
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeJun 17th 2015 edited
     
    I have a raft design and I told the SE I wanted insulation below. He called one of the manufacturers to discuss loading and has produced drawings showing the use of EPS 300 below the foundations.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 17th 2015
     
    Posted By: TriassicI have a raft design and I told the SE I wanted insulation below. He called one of the manufacturers to discuss loading and has produced drawings showing the use of EPS 300 below the foundations.

    Using EPS 300 everywhere sounds excessive, and AFAIK you can't get graphite in that rating. We have EPS 300 around our ringbeam and graphite EPS 70 elsewhere.

    I don't know about relative costs.
    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeJun 17th 2015
     
    Thought VH had calcs already done which are supplied when you use the foundation system?
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJun 17th 2015
     
    Yes they do but they won't come to Devon to just do a foundation slab, they will sell me the eps in kit form but I still have to pay the SE about a grand for the design particular to my house.

    P.s. Woodgnome did you see my pm to you?
    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeJun 17th 2015
     
    Just seen it.. Sent you an email.
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2015 edited
     
    Posted By: djh
    Posted By: TriassicI have a raft design and I told the SE I wanted insulation below. He called one of the manufacturers to discuss loading and has produced drawings showing the use of EPS 300 below the foundations.

    Using EPS 300 everywhere sounds excessive, and AFAIK you can't get graphite in that rating. We have EPS 300 around our ringbeam and graphite EPS 70 elsewhere.

    I don't know about relative costs.
    it is excessive to use EPS 300 under the whole foundation, the SE took the easy option in specifying it. I will do the EPS loading calcs myself in order to reduce the amount of EPS300 being used and use EPS100 under the majority.

    Not sure why you used graphite EPS?

    Interesting question regarding the relative cost of EPS300 and 100, anyone got the costs?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2015
     
    Posted By: TriassicNot sure why you used graphite EPS?

    Better lambda = U-value. We have 400 mm of graphite EPS to get the U-value we needed for PH. It's a downside of using straw for the walls; everything else needs to be super-plus good.

    BTW, do check the availability of EPS300. When I did it I only found the place in Ireland that was supplying it. All UK alternatives only went to EPS250. But I may have missed something or things may have changed. My price was a package for all the EPS I used so I don't have a breakdown, sorry.
  1.  
    Insulated rafts are normally used with timber frame or EWI. If you have a masonry outer leaf then you need to think about how you will support that without bridging the perimeter insulation. Using an independent trench fill foundation for the outer leaf could lead to differential movement between outer leaf and raft/inner leaf. I have seen studies from Denmark where an outer ring beam is used to support the outer leaf and this is joined to the main raft with steel rods. To my mind, £1000 is money well spent to mitigate this risk.

    David
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJun 22nd 2015 edited
     
    Yes, this is one of my concerns and if I have to dig a trench for the outer skin then the savings of a raft are not so great. I am now thinking of following the Denby Dale house and have the insulation all the way to the deep concrete foundation in the trench and use aerated blocks for the inner skin up to the dpc. Still having 300mm of insulation under the floor slab.

    Having already spoken to the B.C.officer about foundations for the garage the ground is medium shrinkable clay and they have no problems with strip foundations at 850mm deep and a little wider than minimum so I guess they will not insist on S.E. Input for a trench foundation.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeJun 22nd 2015
     
    What about lightweight aggregate (maybe aircrete) foundation blocks with some EPS on the outside?

    (I think lots of insulation under the slab is pointless unless you are having UFH, or insulation so well that you can save the cost of installing a heating system.)

    I talked to one ICF vendor a long time ago, they claimed that with deap strip foundations, the cost of using ICF below ground was less then the saved concrete from a full width trench fill.
  2.  
    You don't want the foundation blocks to be any wider than necessary to support the slab and inner leaf. A wider block means a wider heat path. If you are using 100mm/140mm blocks for the inner leaf above slab then try to use 100mm/140mm aerated concrete block below slab. If necessary increase compressive strength, but don't increase width if you can avoid it.

    300mm of insulation below the centre of the slab probably doesn't bring much benefit, but 300mm below the edge of the slab is very worthwhile. An alternative approach is 150mm below the slab and an additional 150mm upstanding against the inner face of the inner leaf. However, combined with the insulation outside the inner leaf, this leads to very wide footings.

    David
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 23rd 2015
     
    Posted By: davidfreeboroughUsing an independent trench fill foundation for the outer leaf could lead to differential movement between outer leaf and raft/inner leaf. I have seen studies from Denmark where an outer ring beam is used to support the outer leaf and this is joined to the main raft with steel rods.

    That's quite similar to our situation where the bales need to be supported over their width. The original design had a separate strip foundation to support the outer edge, but we finished up with a ringbeam around the raft tied with some steel and concrete ribs. Still OK for PHPP bridging.

    Posted By: joe90Having already spoken to the B.C.officer about foundations for the garage the ground is medium shrinkable clay and they have no problems with strip foundations at 850mm deep and a little wider than minimum so I guess they will not insist on S.E. Input for a trench foundation.

    That sounds similar to our ground conditions, though we do have trees as well, and was another reason we ditched the strip foundation in favour of the ringbeam. I couldn't get a design that both the SE and the materials supplier would sign off on for clay heave protection under the slab whilst still maintaining the integrity of the sub-slab insulation. The insulation needs to be pressed against the slab, but that's not how heave protection works - it crushes.
    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeJun 23rd 2015 edited
     
    We did Denby Dale type founds and what David said regarding an upstand on the inner leaf.
    Here is the sand screed to top of an EPS upstand followed by the 300mm EPS leaving a 150mm slab which we used the Cavity EPS as shuttering when we poured the slab.
      20140129_145615.jpg
      20140129_112858.jpg
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