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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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  1.  
    Hi All,

    I'm very new to this forum and am beginning to slowly renovate my first home (1900 south-east facing mid terrace in Cardiff). Please excuse if any of my questions/comments seem dopey!

    I have looked through a number of the discussions on here and many of the web pages suggested for newbies. I was just hoping for some guidance and things to think about when prioritising and budgeting. The amount of information is a bit daunting and I'm getting that "I don't know what I don't know" feeling.

    I am currently getting very confused over various RHI/SEG/ECO support. I was considering approaching a sustainable buildings consultancy service for guidance/review (BREEAM/NEST)

    My current EPC is 42 with issues seeming to be a lack of solid wall and floor insulation and electric heating for the shower.

    I have been reading the suspended timber floor discussions with great interest as I am completely suspended at varying depths throughout. The loft has some insulation (EPC says 200mm).

    I have had some tasks completed since moving in (February 2020) include replacing blown lights with low energy lighting, installing a new boiler (previous owners were using plug in electric heaters throughout the house), connecting as much of the water heating to the boiler (only shower supplied by electricity now), removing the gas supplied fires and overhauling the garden (think bee/butterfly paradise!).

    My next plan is to refit the kitchen and lean-to utility. Is there anything you would suggest as a pertinent consideration for this? The floors in both rooms are suspended so providing that any damp problem further down the wall are sorted out - would you insulate the voids beneath?

    I have looked into energy efficient appliances and lighting and plan to draught proof the doors and upgrade the double glazing to triple.

    In terms of general housing renovations, any suggestions on where to start with a limited budget? Any comments or advice are gratefully received!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 3rd 2020
     
    Posted By: monkeywoodThe amount of information is a bit daunting and I'm getting that "I don't know what I don't know" feeling.

    Hello and welcome. Don't worry about this, it's perfectly normal. But do allow for it stretching your timetable a bit - it's better to get to the point where you feel you know at least some of the answers, or have provisional answers to most, even, before you actually start work. It's amazing how much of the plan can change along the way. I'd also work out a long term plan, if you're planning on staying in the house for a length of time.

    I would stick at least another 100 mm in the loft - it's quick, easy and cheap. I'd also make the ceiling airtight. I'd certainly consider insulating the floors and making them airtight. Making things airtight is important but does mean you will also need to consider ventilation.

    Upgrading functional double glazing to triple is much less worthwhile. By all means replace blown units, but I wouldn't spend a lot of money on windows until you have considered the other thing you don't mention - EWI (external wall insulation). You could consider secondary glazing during winter as a short term possibility.
  2.  
    Welcome!

    1. Make sure the maintenance is all up-to-date and the building is good and dry.

    2. Do the 'quick hits' such as loft insulation (not always as simple as it sounds). Do you have an attic room?

    3. Ditto suspended timber floors. Is there a crawl space below, or do you have to take up the boards? Suspended floors throughout sounds good, as you ought to be able to get really good cross-ventilation to reduce potential condensation issues. be aware that under-floor insulation does not always appear to obey the rules of Building physics! (Yes, I know it must, but you will find a lot of stories re unexpected problems, or equally no problems where problems were expected.

    4. For me, the solid walls would come next. External Wall Insulation (EWI) is hard (but not impossible) with an inner terrace. The internal of external walls ('IWI') can be good, can cause problems, can leave gaps.

    With all the above, work hard to achieve a good standard of air-tightness. Even good quality insulation can be badly let down by cold outside air getting where it shouldn't.

    As regards the windows, are you proposing triple glazing ('3G') in the existing frames? If so, see what improvement you will actually get. A good 2G unit is 24-28mm. A good 3G unit is about 48-50mm. Some plastic window co's use a smaller glazing bead in a '2G' frame to 'shoe-horn' in a slim 3G unit. The improvement may be so small that it's not worth the effort. Check the claims, and the numbers, and get to know the difference between U(w) and U(g) (We'll tell you!)

    Try that for starters!


    *Cross-posted with djh! Same hymn-sheet anyway!!
  3.  
    Good luck monkey wood, you're doing good stuff. There's much more scope for reducing energy use in a period property than in a newbuild which is already pretty good.

    We're on our second Victorian refurb and our priorities (based on the first one) are:

    - safety/security issues including some electrics
    - fix roof leaks
    - fix damp
    - draught reduction (all the random 1" holes left by previous plumbers)
    - lighting
    - loft insulation
    -pipe and tank insulation
    -under-suspended-floor insulation, combined with fixing skirting board draughts
    - air source heat pump
    - insulation of lean-to extension walls (much thinner than orig Victorian house)
    - possible EWI

    We are not touching the existing DG windows and we are not installing solar.

    As we are living in it, 'comfort' works such as decorating and storage and new bathroom and gardening are quite high up the list!

    While you're refitting the kitchen, definitely do anything you can re insulating walls, floor as it's not happening after your lovely new kitchen is in! But watch kitchen fitters carefully, they are notorious for hiding gaps round pipes behind cupboards where they think you won't see.
    • CommentAuthorKenny_M
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2020
     
    Welcome Monkeywood
    I also have an older property, built and modified between 1820 and 1890, then again with an extension in around 1989. People on the forum have been incredibly helpful and I can credit their advice for much of what I have managed to get done so far. Not everyone agrees on everything as you will see within the threads so sometimes you just have to make a decision and take a leap. With older houses it can be difficult because sometimes there is no good solution and you just have to choose from sub optimal options and take a risk.

    Unlike mine, yours will hopefully have a DPC. This is something I need to keep factoring in to discussions.

    As some have suggested already, I focussed on basic maintenance and ensuring the house was dry first. Two chimney stacks had to be rebuilt and 1970's cement render removed (before it fell off), gutters repaired, and so on. Old walls in particular can take years to dry out so I felt it was sensible to deal with this stuff first. Then moved on to a modern boiler, before starting on insulation. I have focussed on the main living area, which is the extension and brought it close to modern standards as this is where I will get the most energy saving.

    In terms of windows I installed triple glazed doors in the extension, and they are amazing, but I think what triple gives over double is a comfort factor, and if you are going to be sitting very close to it and it covers a large part of the wall area as it does in mine, it can be beneficial. I wouldn't be so bothered about it anywhere else. At the rear of the house I have replaced a lot of the single glazing with double glazed sealed units, leaving the original frames in place. This was easy enough with fixed windows, but would be more difficult with units that need to open.

    I haven't done any double glazing at the front yet, conservation area has made me think long and hard before submitting planning, but it is in now for new timber framed, sash and case lookalike double glazing. Its 50/50 whether this will be approved.
  4.  
    Hi All,

    Thanks for the warm welcome and food for thought!

    I have a rough longer term idea and am currently making my way through the pro's, cons and feasibility for things that I’ve thought of (and things you have suggested).

    I have three walls at the back side of the house which are not connected to the terrace, ending in the very cold lean-to. I’ve now requested a few different quotes for EWI to compare. There is no attic room, only two separate attic spaces.

    These companies offer void insulation and I will enquire about the additional space in the loft - if it is a reputable/experienced company can I assume (I know they say not to) they would pay attention to ventilation and airtightness?

    There is no crawl space in the void, I would end up taking up boards and replacing the catastrophic skirting which is currently gaping above the carpet.

    Thank you for the window comments - I have time to go through the discussions already posted on here and familiarise myself with the numbers advised!

    Those lists are very helpful! I’m trying to maintain a balance between not blowing my entire pay package and reigning in the ‘comfort’ works whilst there are a few essential priorities.

    As someone who really feels the cold (but begrudging puts the heating on), the insulation has jumped up the to-do list (will sort the loft ASAP). I will pray to the building physics deities for no problems with the underfloor insulation - anything to be particularly watchful for to try to improve my odds?

    I will discuss with the carpenter who is fitting the floor and cabinets - he is notoriously diligent and seems very receptive to discussion.

    DPC in 2016 with previous owners. I have developed one damp kitchen wall which I have finally found to be due to an ill fitting stack pipe - being sorted out next week with any luck!

    I am ‘keen’ to have a look into the void as I don’t think the house was ever really warmed during the previous landlords occupancy (around 4 years) and more frustratingly, there has been two separate incidences of rodent activity :sad: (appears to be due to the stack/sewage pipework).
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2020
     
    Lots of good advice so far but I would put a hold on any further work, joinery, cabinets, kitchen etc until you have full clarity of what you want to do.

    With regards to your question over whether the people you get to do the loft will pay attention to ventilation and airtightness, my personal and sceptical view is no they wont!! If your not going DIY then I would do some research into what is needed so you understand how things should be done and ensure whoever dies the work understands the standards you want and are prepared to pay for.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2020 edited
     
    Posted By: philedgeWith regards to your question over whether the people you get to do the loft will pay attention to ventilation and airtightness, my personal and sceptical view is no they wont!!

    Agreed. I don't think it's sceptical, just realistic. Unless airtightness is done with a full understanding and especially with proper ventilation of some kind, it usually results in problems due to excess humidity - mould, rot etc, not to mention stuffiness and smells. So in a typical tradesman's experience it's more a source of trouble and no perceived benefit.

    I was lucky that the tradesmen on my build at least accepted what I was trying to do and went along with it. One of the carpenters really got into it and was pointing out potential problems with some of the details by the end. But when we started it was just a question of me telling them what had to be done and watching carefully to make sure it was.
    • CommentAuthorcc64
    • CommentTimeDec 7th 2020
     
    consult not the gods regarding underfloor insulation but rather best Practice guides...

    https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/insulating-suspended-timber-floors-best-practice

    BR262 is also a good read
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 7th 2020
     
    Way too much to read! Don’t park on customers driveway!
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